Delia's Vegetarian Collection

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The more I learn about lasagne, the more I realise that the real deal is quite different from the sort I grew up with – Italian lasagne doesn't slump on the plate in a puddle of sauce, but sits proud and holds its shape. Most recipes I make achieve this goal, though the American Academy's fresh cherry tomato sauce does slosh about a bit (but if you have a glut of tomatoes, pureeing them and layering with pasta and mozzarella does make a gorgeous summer supper). Now you need to deal with the spinach. First of all remove and discard the stalks, then wash the leaves really thoroughly in 2 or 3 changes of cold water and shake them dry. Next, take your largest saucepan, pop the knob of butter in it, then pile the spinach leaves in on top, sprinkling them with a little salt as you go. Now place the pan over a medium heat, put a lid on and cook the spinach for about 2 minutes, turning the leaves over halfway through. After that, the leaves will have collapsed down and become tender. Now you need to place a small frying pan over a medium heat, add the pine nuts and dry-fry them for about 1 minute, tossing them around to get them nicely toasted but being careful that they don't burn. Then remove the pan from the heat and assemble the lasagne. To do this, spread a quarter of the sauce into the bottom of the dish and, on top of that, a third of the spinach mixture, followed by a scattering of toasted pine nuts. Now place sheets of pasta on top of this – you may need to tear some of them in half with your hands to make them fit. Now repeat the whole process, this time adding a third of the grated Mozzarella along with the pine nuts, then the lasagne sheets. Repeat again, finishing with a layer of pasta, the rest of the sauce and the remaining Parmesan and Mozzarella. When the roulade is cooked, turn it out on to the hazelnuts and carefully peel off the base paper. Spread the creamed parsnip evenly all over the sage and onion stuffing. Then roll up the roulade along the longest side, using the greaseproof paper underneath to help you pull it into a round (it's not difficult, it behaves very well). Begin by preparing the aubergines: to do this cut them into ½ inch (1 cm) dice leaving the skins on.

Most of the recipes I try include an umami-rich element in homage to the original meat filling. Cheese will do that job perfectly, of course, as well as adding fat, so if you use it, fold in grated hard cheese of your choice to taste (about 50g should do, but it will vary depending on strength; you’ll need less mature cheddar than red leicester, for example). Soy sauce is a popular vegan alternative, and makes an appearance in both Elliot’s and Young’s versions, with the latter also adding miso paste for an extra hit of savoury flavour; Bosh, meanwhile, use nutritional yeast, which always reminds me, not unpleasantly, of Quavers. All of these are excellent choices, but I like to keep things simple with a spoonful of Marmite, which is something I always have in the house anyway. If you don’t care for it, choose one of the above instead. The seasoning Almost everyone suggests buying vegan puff pastry, which is certainly the easiest option, but, while all pastry is good, it’s hard to deny the fact that homemade pastry is usually better, and Smith’s flaky pastry always is. (Rhodes gives a vegetarian suet version, but that involves palm oil, so I’d prefer to steer clear.) It all depends how much time and patience you have. The same goes for the chestnut puree in Rose Elliot’s version from her Vegetarian Christmas book: though the chestnuts feel festive, the texture is similarly mushy and the flavour similarly sweet. It’s a clever idea, especially because chestnut puree is now fairly easy to come by in large supermarkets, but for me it needs more than onion, garlic and seasoning to compete with sausage meat. Laura Fyfe’s recipe for Jamie magazine also contains cheese (stilton this time), but the base is roast butternut squash mixed with breadcrumbs and chopped walnuts, which makes it much more adaptable – you could easily leave out the cheese, or replace it with a plant-based substitute without changing the flavour profile too much. (Other recipes that fall into this category include Anna Jones’s root vegetable rolls and Bosh’s giant parsnip and bean one.) Delicious as these are, however, they’re far softer and sweeter than a traditional sausage roll, and I’d like to find something that doesn’t feel so much like a vegetarian alternative.First make up the stuffing by melting the butter in a small heavy-based saucepan, then add the onions and cook them for about 6 minutes or until they are transparent. Finally, sprinkle over the Parmesan and bake the pie on the top shelf of the oven for 20-25 minutes, or until the top is lightly browned. When the aubergines and peppers are cool enough to handle, scoop out the flesh of the aubergines and mash up any large pieces. Peel the peppers, remove the seeds and finely chop the flesh, then add to the aubergine. Caldesi also makes a tomato sauce along with her bechamel, while Hazan, Stewart and Smith use bechamel only, and the Silver Spoon goes for a mixture of ricotta and tomato puree.

Cover and cook gently for 6 minutes, then drain, reserving the water. Now heat the oil in a pan and fry the onion until softened. Then stir in the turmeric, coriander, cumin seeds, ginger and garlic, followed by the lentils, and stir until everything is thoroughly combined before pouring in the reserved vegetable water. Now bring to the boil, cover and cook gently for 40 minutes, or until the lentils are just tender.

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First, soak the vine leaves in boiling water for 20 minutes, then drain and spread out each leaf flat – vein side uppermost. Next drain the spinach in a colander and, when it's cool enough to handle, squeeze it in your hands to get rid of every last drop of liquid. Then place it on a chopping board and chop it finely. Now put it into a bowl, add the ricotta, then approximately 5 fl oz (150 ml) of the sauce. Give it a good seasoning of salt and pepper and add the grated nutmeg. Then mix everything together really thoroughly and, finally, fold in the crumbled Gorgonzola. The obvious solution, of course, is to use a plant-based meat substitute, and Mob Kitchen recommends a pea, rice and soy protein-based brand for their recipe, which is mixed with sage, onion, chopped chestnuts and apricots, and nutmeg to produce something that looks much more like the fillings with which I’m familiar. The problem is that plant-based meats are incredibly low in fat, and cook to a crisp, leaving the filling sadly dry and, in this case, bland – I can’t detect much in the way of flavour from the “mince”. It might work better with another kind, but then you could also encase meat-free sausages in pastry without any guidance from me. First of all place the dried shrimps in a jug, cover with some boiling water and soak for 10 minutes, then do the same with the noodles, placing them in a bowl and making sure they're totally submerged in boiling water. After this time, drain the noodles in a colander and rinse them in cold water, then drain the shrimps.

Next add the blanched vegetables to the lentil mixture along with the yoghurt, tomato puree and just ½ teaspoon of cayenne pepper. Stir well, and try to push all the vegetables below the surface of the liquid. Now bring to simmering point, cover and cook for a further 20 minutes, or until everything is tender. Taste and add a further ¼ teaspoon of cayenne, if you prefer a hotter flavour, and season with salt.

Roll the filling up in the pastry like a bug in a rug, as Young recommends, rather than folding over in the more traditional but also more fiddly fashion, then brush with milk or egg, sprinkle with a few seeds to make it party ready, and you’ll have a sausage roll that everyone but the dog will enjoy. Perfect vegetarian sausage rolls Now pre-heat the oven to gas mark 5, 375°F (190°C), and put the potatoes on to steam. Next, roughly chop all the vegetables, pile the whole lot into a food processor and process until chopped small. Next, melt the butter in a large frying pan over a medium heat, add the vegetables and cook gently for 10-15 minutes, stirring now and then until they’re softened and tinged gold at the edges. Delia Smith’s veg sausage rolls: cheddar, breadcrumbs and cream. Thumbnails by Felicity. The ‘meat’ While we're on the subject of texture, baked pasta dishes such as lasagne are apparently not intended to be served al dente – they should tend more towards the "custardy", which is certainly not an adjective I've ever heard applied to any other kind. This is perhaps why Hazan and Stewart insist on the use of fresh pasta.

When you are ready to cook the lasagne, place it on the middle shelf of the pre-heated oven and bake for 50-60 minutes, until the top is golden and bubbling. Then remove it from the oven and let it settle for about 10 minutes before serving. First prepare the roasted vegetables: prepare the aubergine and courgettes ahead of time by cutting them into 1 inch (2.5 cm) dice, leaving the skins on.Prepare the aubergine and courgettes ahead of time by cutting them into 1 inch (2.5 cm) dice, leaving the skins on. While they're cooking, heat 2 tablespoons of oil in a large solid frying pan and fry the onions until they're soft and tinged brown at the edges (about 5 minutes), then add the chopped pepper and soften and brown that too for about another 4 minutes. Next add the garlic, cook for 1 minute more, then transfer the whole lot to a plate. Next transfer the aubergines to a clean tea cloth to squeeze them dry, then add a further 2 tablespoons of oil to the frying pan, turn the heat up to high and toss the aubergines in it so they get evenly cooked. When they're starting to brown a little, add the drained tomatoes and the onion and pepper mixture to the pan.