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The Army Painter Speedpaint Mega Set, 24 Dropper Bottles of Non Toxic 18ml Acrylic Paints with Mixing Balls including 1 Monster Paint Brush

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So, after reading the original version Troy over at Sonic Sledgehammer Painting Studio decided to give it a go, and here are his excellent results:

If you want a very specific recommendation for a brush to use with Contrast Paint I would go with a Raphael 8404 either in Size 3 or Size 2 There are a ton of amazing shades but these five might just be Rob’s favorites. There is a brown that’s perfect for popping things like leather. The blue from before obviously. The camo green has so many uses it’s just insane. His new favorite out of all of them is the red, it just pops like wow. Other Applications Pallid Bone is a bit warmer and softer than Skeleton Horde, Hardened Leather is very similar to Gore-grunta Fur, while Sand Golem is a warm light brown. Dark Wood is like a mix of Wyldwood and Cygor Brown. Crusader Skin is a bit more reddish than Guilliman Flesh.The new Citadel contrast range of paints are a pleasure to work with, and are now my “go to” paints when dealing with any rank and file troops, you simply cannot bear an average of 5-10 minutes per figure and will result in many boxes of minis actually getting painted and making it onto the table in my household. When painting with contrasts you want to paint with lots of paint on the brush. This is another thing that differs from how you paint with acrylics, where you want to apply multiple thin coats. Instead you want to put a bunch of contrast on the model and start moving it around. Generally my rule of thumb is it should be saturated but it shouldn’t be dripping off the brush and I should still see the bristles. If you’re painting and it’s looking streaky, don’t panic, get more paint on the brush and start reapplying.

Let’s move on to brown and bone. Pallid Bone is a bit warmer and softer than Skeleton Horde, Hardened Leather is very similar to Goregrunta Fur, while Sand Golem is a warm light brown. Dark Wood is like a mix of Wyldwood and Cygor Brown. Crusader Skin is a bit more reddish than Guilliman Flesh. If you have a favorite ink or transparent paint you love, and want it to settle into recesses like contrast paints, try mixing it with contrast medium. Zealot Yellow is a little more orange than Iyanden Yellow, Fire Giant Orange a little more tomato red. Blood Red and Blood Angels Red are almost identical. Slaughter Red is a bit more crimson and produces slightly more prominent highlights, whereas Flesh Tearers Red is a little darker. Purple Alchemy is clearly darker than Volupus Pink and should perhaps be thinned with a little bit of Speedpaint Medium. Hive Dweller Purple is also slightly darker than Shyish Purple, but dries much less patchy.

Dark Angels Green Contrast Paint: I love this for grass and leaves. The citadel contrast paints line has a lot of greens, so you can choose your own favorites. Iyanden Yellow Contrast Paint: Depending on what you’re looking for, this is my favorite yellow. It’s not overly bright, it’s got that little bit of brownish orange to it. That being said, the main concern is a bigger size brush. So if you are trying to learn how to use contrast paints and you have some synthetics you like, they are more than good enough to use. You don’t need anything particular to use contrast paints. The original release had some issues with reactivation, meaning if you put another layer on top of a speed paint, it would become liquid again and blend into whatever you were doing. At this point the model’s almost done but I’m not quite happy with the definition on it mostly on the faces. So I decided to push the definition farther with a wash. That’s right you can wash down contrasts if you want to. You can brighten them up with layering and highlights too if you want to. No one can or will stop you. I use dark red wash like Army Painter Red Tone or Berserker Bloodshade, focusing on the crevices and creases on the face but also hitting the main body a bit.

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