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For a commuter light, rather than one for post-work training rides or long-distance winter epics, this is perfectly sufficient. When wearing casual clothes, I’m not really going to be pushing any harder than Zone 2. Plus, if your commute is mainly street lit, there’s simply no need for a brighter light than this as it doesn’t make a significant difference to what you can see. The front bike light should always be positioned as close to the centre of the bike's handlebars as possible. Make sure the light is attached tightly and securely so it won't budge as you roll over bumps in the road.
Generally, the more you shell out, the brighter your lights will be. You’ll also likely see more choice in terms of light modes – including steady lighting at various intensity levels and numerous flashing modes.This battery powered light is slightly heavier than the other offerings on this list (at 500 grams) but that also gives it a more “premium” feel than other similarly priced alternatives. The beam is spread rather than focussed, so it’s particularly useful for urban cycling. You can also set the light to “blink” mode for additional visibility and to save some power. To augment their bike-mounted torch, many riders also opt for helmet-mounted lights. These can be very effective and have the added benefit of directing the light wherever you are looking. However, these should be in addition to those on the bike, and not your only source of illumination.
USB rechargeable: Plenty of lights on the market are USB rechargeable. Not only do these save you money as you're not buying loads of batteries, but they're also really easy to charge. Simply plug the light into a computer or USB plug to charge it up. Of course, light power is an important part of your buying criteria, but don’t let that be the be-all and end-all. Beam shape and the effect of the light lens can make a huge difference — we’ve seen lights of supposedly lesser power trounce rivals when it comes to real-world performance. The Trace and TraceR lights are the smallest and most featherweight units Exposure produces and at first glance it's hard to imagine the sort of performance they are capable of. But just like David against Goliath, size isn't everything. PDW’s Lars Rover Power extends its beam further than Trek’s Commuter Pro RT, but it doesn’t ‘fill’ the road ahead quite as well. The PNW light also doesn’t fill the area perpendicularly out from the front wheel, whereas the Commuter Pro RT does cast its light out in that direction, too. In essence, the Lars Rover Power is a more ‘basic’ lens, but depending on your application this light distribution could be preferable. Charging is simple and it takes just 1.5 hours to charge each from empty. A USB charging port is located under the rubber band that encircles the light. It can be a bit fiddly to pull it out of the way but you soon get used to the process. We’re yet to have any water ingress so despite its flimsy appearance it works really well.The Knog Mid Cobber has a few really nice features which make it stand out against the crowd - but it also has a few limitations which put it out of the running for ‘best overall’. If you like to hit the road after work or on the weekend, it's best to get a light set that enables you to both see and be seen in all climates. The maximum brightness is 100 lumens and the burn time is listed as three hours on that mode, which is respectable, though not class-leading. In the arms race for ever more lumens, to have 100 on a rear light is pretty standard these days. But it is well beyond what is really necessary for being seen - I never feel the need to run the light on full blast.
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