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Olympus M.Zuiko Digital ED 40-150 mm F4-5.6 Lens, Telephoto Zoom, Suitable for All MFT Cameras (Olympus OM-D & PEN Models, Panasonic G Series), Black

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And feel that this lens is under rated. However Every chance I can get, I always recommend this lens. For those who are excited by technical specifications, it has 15 elements in 9 groups (2 ED lenses, 1 super ED lens, 1 HR lens, 2 aspherical lenses). The front element is coated with a new water-repellent fluorine coating that makes it much easier to remove moisture and water droplets from the lens. As I shoot on the shoreline a lot, that is a blessing. Finally, there is the MC-14 1.4x teleconverter, the first developed for MFT lenses. It is relatively flat (14.7mm) so using it won’t affect the size of your system. It features a very similar build quality to the lens with an all-metal finish. The front lens protrudes from the converter, a design that will limit its compatibility to the Olympus 40-150mm and upcoming 300mm f/4. It won’t work with other MFT telephoto lenses. Nevertheless, the Olympus 40-150mm F/4 Pro is the better lens. The samples and MTF charts show that the F4 lens delivers vastly superior image quality. Furthermore, the Olympus 40 150 F4 Pro benefits from flare and dust-resistant lens coatings while the cheaper lens does not. Source: Olympus However, I began seeing internet reports, as well as one from a friend, of this lens hood suddenly disintegrating. Then one day, my hood also did the same.

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Whether this is a sensible trade-off depends on your photography. If you shoot moving subjects in poor light, the twice-as-bright F2.8 will give you more light at faster shutter speeds, ideal for avoiding motion blur and noisy high ISOs. And because it passes more light, autofocus tends to work better.Following an initial day of testing at the Cheltenham horse races with Ken McMahon, Gordon sourced a second sample of the lens and tested it for a month in a wide variety of portrait, landscape and action environments. He also retested the lens with the Olympus ODM EM1 updated to firmware 2.2 which claims to deliver superior AF precision with the 40-150mm. Read on to find out if this is the telephoto zoom Micro Four Thirds owners have been waiting for. Olympus 40-150mm f2.8 Pro design and build quality In the comparison with the Lumix lens, I did some basic test shots but I think that images taken in real situations, like the ones you’ll see below, are actually more interesting to share. E-M1, 1/200, f/ 2.8, ISO 1600 – 150mm E-M1, 1/160, f/ 2.8, ISO 1600 E-M1, 1/160, f/ 2.8, ISO 200 As you read through this review, keep in mind that in m4/3, we have a 2x crop factor. So when you see EFL, this means equivalent focal length on full-frame cameras. I have found the Olympus 40-150mm f/2.8 Pro to be the best of those choices due to reach, build quality, close-focusing and more. Falloff of illumination towards the corners is well controlled. At 40mm the corners are only 0.5 stops darker than the image centre at maximum aperture and this level increases to 0.8 stops at 150mm. Stopping the lens down just one stop results in visually uniform illumination throughout the zoom range.

Olympus M.Zuiko Digital ED 40-150mm f/4.0-5.6 Lens Review

The Olympus M.Zuiko Digital ED 40-150mm f2.8 Pro is a high-end telephoto zoom for the Micro Four Thirds system – as such it’ll work on any modern Panasonic or Olympus body. It was originally teased in September 2013 at the launch of the OMD EM1 and 12-40mm f2.8 Pro zoom, but took a whole year to finally come to market, officially being announced during Photokina in September 2014. The 75-300 can deliver some good images, I had some good success with it at the long end particularly using the electronic shutter and good long lens technique. At f/4 with the teleconverter, the sharpness actually decreases a little bit more at the longest focal length (150mm + MC-14 = 210mm) when the lens has to focus on a distant subject. E-M1, 1/400, f/ 4, ISO 200 – 210mm MC-14 This was however a brief one-day test. Since then I’ve had a chance to shoot with the 40-150mm for a solid month (this is Gordon speaking!). During this time, Olympus released firmware version 2.2 for the OMD EM1 which, amongst other things, promised greater focusing accuracy with the 40-150mm lens.

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What surprised me was the performance of the E-M1/40-150 in low-light. Aside from dance show, I also decided to test the lens for the Electric Run 2014 where people participate in a non-competitive marathon at night wearing fluorescent and brightly-lit clothing. I was curious to see how the lens would behave in such a difficult situation where even other photographers with DSLR cameras were having a hard time. Surprisingly the camera and the lens worked really well and I only really found myself in trouble when the scene had a too little contrast or almost no light. For birding shots I used Canon DSLR gear for some time before down-sizing to my EM5 a couple of years ago. If you and/or your readers are interested my recent blog post shares my recent "field" experience with the M.Zuiko 40-150mm F2.8 PRO. Overall, the Olympus 40-150mm F4 Pro is better by every measure except price and weight. And if you’re outdoors, you might feel more confident using the IP53-rated F4 Pro. That said, you could write off the cheaper lens 4-times over for the price of one Olympus 40-150 F4 Pro. OM-S 40-150mm F4 Pro vs Olympus 40-150mm F2.8

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Before I move on to talk about the optics and focusing, just to note that like several other lenses in the Olympus range the 40-150mm f2.8 Pro has a L-fn function button on the barrel that can be assigned to one of a number of functions from the custom menu on the camera. Olympus 40-150mm f2.8 Pro optics The Olympus 40-150mm f/2.8 lens is a workhorse zoom that will make into the kit of most micro four thirds shooters needing an 80-300mm 35mm equivalent reach. It’s great for wedding and portrait photographers as well as nature and sports. I've got the MC-20 on the 40-150. F5.6 is soft. 6.3 starts to get sharper but not great until f7.1.The blue column represents readings from the centre of the picture frame at the various apertures and the green is from the edges. Averaging them out gives the red weighted column. Sell the kit you’re not using to MPB. Trade in for the kit you need to create. Buy used, spend less and get more. Buy. Sell. Trade. Create. Although this lens isn't supplied with a hood, it is quite resistant to flare and loss of contrast in contra-lit situations. In extreme circumstances strong sources of light just outside of the frame might cause a little flare, and shooting into very strong light sources may result in a slight loss on contrast.

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I have too 9 mm fisheye 8.0 (thanks for your review!It's a good, good optically, funny "toy lens" but...very usefeull), 14-42IIR and Panasonic 20 1.7. Chromatic aberrations, typically seen as purple or blue fringes along contrasty edges, are a non-issue with this lens. We were hard pressed to find any evidence of CA in the images - these are the absolute worst examples we were able to dig up. Equipped with a manual focus (MF) clutch mechanism that permits instantly switching from the autofocus (AF) to the MF mode to allow for personal selection. The sharpness/resolution of the 40-150mm with or without the TC enables images to be cropped significantly with little discernible loss of IQ. Using the TC lessens the difference in focal length. Bokeh is a word used for the out-of-focus areas of a photograph, and is usually described in qualitative terms, such as smooth / creamy / harsh etc. In the M.ZUIKO Digital 40-150mm f/4-5.6 ED, Olympus employed an iris diaphragm with 7 rounded blades, which has resulted in a pretty decent bokeh for a zoom lens, at least in our opinion. However, recognising that bokeh evaluation is subjective, we have provided a few examples for your perusal.

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I also recommend the use of a tripod in situations where you need to work with slow shutter speeds. Even though the 5-axis stabilisation works well, there might always be a couple of pictures that come out slightly blurry. Moreover, the effectiveness of the stabilisation is related to how well positioned and stable the photographer is. Most wildlife shooters use tripods for a reason, so I recommend that you do the same, especially with the MC-14, if you plan to do a lot of animal shooting. The 40-150 looks sharper to me - there are probably other differences (higher contrast on the 40-150), and perhaps the 75-300 could do with some additional sharpening, but if these were the final images, I would prefer the 40-150 photo out of these two.

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