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Posted 20 hours ago

Shinto saw file rasp L

£9.9£99Clearance
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ZTS2023
Joined in 2023
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About this deal

Pine is a piece of cake for this aggressive rasp. But how about hardwoods, and especially burl wood? I just can’t conclude this Shinto rasp review without putting it to the test. I would not say that it is a surface that is ready to be finished. Using the Shinto on Dense, Burl Wood

There are two sides on the Shinto rasp – corse and fine. The corse side is used for rough shaping, while the fine side is used for getting a finer surface. These irregular offcuts need to be flattened before I can make any use of them. My other rasps can do the job, but they also tend to cause big tear-outs and damage to the wood.In this light, after cleaning up with denatured alcohol, you can see how flat and clean the surface is. This surface is ready for lacquer or an oil-rubbed finish. One of the challenges I face when working with burl wood is making use of offcuts like this one. It is a piece of Malaysian burl wood, Langsat Kuning. I am not sure what the international trade term is. Due to the larger surface area of the 9″ version, I managed to flatten the entire surface of this piece. There was no tearout, but the surface was pretty rough and jagged. The saw tooth extends to the tip, which makes the Shinto rasp pretty useful for getting into tight corners. It is effortless to clean – Use your wire brush to remove dust from between the teeth easily. Just tapping the rasp gently on your workbench will remove 90% of the dust.

The first thing I did was to test the Shinto rasp’s corse side on a piece of scrap pine wood. I could immediately feel how aggressive it was in removing material. It feels more like a saw than a rasp, but that makes a whole lot of sense. I’m attaching them here in case you need to refer, but it’s basic information about how to use (and how NOT to use) a rasp in general. Yes, it sounds weird and looks weirder, but I might even try that one day. Testing The Shinto Rasp on Pine / Softwoods

#AxminsterTools

Using the aggressive rough side of the Shinto rasp, I was able to flatten the top part of this burl wood pretty easily. I think it took about 1/4 of the time it usually does with a regular rasp. The handle is too small – For a rasp this big, the handle feels out of place. I’m not a very big guy, yet I was longing for a larger handle. I might have to create my own wooden tool handle for this one. Interestingly, the manual seems to imply the purpose of the Shinto rasp is for creating beveled edges, but it can do so much more than that.

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