Games Workshop - Citadel Colour Layer: Calgar Blue (12ml) Paint

Product Information

Blue without gold is like peanut butter without jelly, and a warm gold will balance the cool blue of the armor nicely. I would advise using two thinned coats of Retributor Armor, as all metallic paints are prone to clumping. We’ll wash the chest aquila and anything with detail like reliquaries or laurels with Reikland Fleshshade. I usually don’t wash the armor trim unless there’s rivets to wash around or an overlapping lip. We’ll then edge highlight it all Liberator Gold, and hit the sharpest corners with Stormhost Silver to get a gleaming gold. I sometimes skip the Liberator Gold step, but the Stormhost Silver step has a lot of impact. I have a feeling my method is going to align fairly closely with JD’s, as we’re likely working from the same half-forgotten White Dwarf from ages ago.I will not be covering basing; we have other articles for that. The most important step in my process, and one you’ll see appear whenever I do edge highlights, is the cleanup stage. Always try for crisp highlights, but if you clean up any shaky lines after the fact with a thinned version of your basepaint, you’ll get cleaner results. This step will also be useful later for cleaning up wherever recess shades may have spilled over. Step 1. Basecoat

Gold: My usual recipe for Ultras is Scale75 Decayed Metal as a base, followed by covering most areas with Scale75 Necro Gold and then highlighted with Scale75 Dwarven Gold. No self-respecting Ultramarine would go to war without the proper iconography. My technique is identical to JD’s. However, we have one more step to go! Step 13. Weathering The hexadecimal color code #4272b8 is a shade of cyan-blue. In the RGB color model #4272b8 is comprised of 25.88% red, 44.71% green and 72.16% blue. In the HSL color space #4272b8 has a hue of 216° (degrees), 47% saturation and 49% lightness. This color has an approximate wavelength of 475.08 nm. B. Taping: This is done concurrently with sub assembling and is just as important. Use an X-Acto Knife to cut out small pieces of painter’s tape to cover the connection areas of the sub-assemblies. This is important because paint over these areas will make it hard for the glue to hold the final model together, and because GW’s current line of models fit together so perfectly the undercoat can prevent the model from coming together as intended. https://imgur.com/3nmTy9f For this step thin some Russ Grey and do some thin lines around the prominent edges. They’ll look quite stark against the Macragge Blue, but the even starker inner highlight later will actually make it look less overpowering (as counter-intuitive as that sounds). Step 3: Adding a bit of ContrastThere isn’t too much silver/steel on these guys; metallics weren’t used as commonly then. If I were to do these again I’d probably go up to Ironbreaker instead of Leadbelcher for a brighter look.

See I did a bit of poking around and I found this tutorial. Im looking for this bright of blue. Although Im basic and probably would paint my Marines as 2nd Company or maybe even 1st Company. A new alternative to Volupus Pink , Doomfire Magenta is lighter and brighter, opening up new avenues for painting pinkish tones. Another important consideration was the inside of the cloaks. I chose not to glue the models to their bases while working on them so that I could pull them off and get at the space between their legs. This is good to keep in mind for any model with a cape or cloak. I did not think of this when I built my first squad of Skitarii and it was… not fun. This is essentially a full shift upwards in brightness from my modern yellow technique, going for a warm, saturated yellow. This is also what I’d do for hazard stripes. So here is the ‘Eavy Metal recipe, but this leaves out some important information on how each of these steps are accomplished, which I will attempt to expand on.Funnily enough, a few of the colors and techniques here are nearly identical to those in my Primaris scheme. I’ll reproduce them here anyway. Step 1. Basecoat These are all the recipes I use for painting the ‘Mechs of my Long Nights mercenary company. They’re all Citadel paints because my paint library comes from painting 40k minis. Emma: Gutrippa Flesh is terrific and will save a lot of time when painting Kruleboyz or Gretchin as it gives an excellent base colour and shade that suits these boyz down to the ground. It’s really great for camo cloth too! PPC barrel glow: Caledor Sky > Nuln Oil pin wash around it > Big dot of Temple Guard Blue > Little dot of Baharroth Blue Other Colors: For the rest of the details I used my usual Vallejo Model Color Dark Rust for the leather, Vallejo Model Color Cavalry Brown for the aiguillette across the chest, Vallejo Model Color Buff for the parchment and Vallejo Model Color Magenta for the purity seal wax.

Mountains: Base coat is Celestra Grey, camo elements are Mechanicus Standard Grey > Nuln Oil pin wash > Ulthuan Grey > White Scar D. Thin Edge Highlight of Fenrisian Grey – Much of a repeat of the previous step but you are covering slightly less of the area than in the previous and the your lines are noticeably thinner, less than half the width the Calgar blue, and covering about 50-75% of the edge area focusing the raised portions. Terrain: Stirland Mud > Seraphim Sepiaall-over wash > Gorthor Brown drybrush > light Baneblade Brown drybrush

#4272b8 background

Take some dark umber pigment powder and mix it with pigment medium to create a runny paste. I then apply this to some of the recesses on the legs and feet to show areas where mud has built up and dried. Here’s a god-tier example from Reddit that shows this technique in action (although note the painter uses multiple edge highlight colors, just not on the camo areas). Look at the edges on the Bolter — they’re all tan, and it’s amazing. Ditto this Warhammer TV video, where Duncan uses a single tan to drybrush the entire tank, including the camo sections that aren’t brown. For the insignia if you haven’t been blessed with the secrets to applying transfers I will outline it for you here. Scrubland: Base coat is Zandri Dust, camo elements are Deathworld Forest > Seraphim Sepia pin wash > Ushabti Bone > Wraithbone (note this is a base paint)

Color Space Conversions Decimal 4354744 Binary 01000010, 01110010, 10111000 Hexadecimal #4272b8 LRV ≈ 16.7% Closest short hex #47b ΔE = 1.975 RGB rgb(66, 114, 184) RGBA rgba(66, 114, 184, 1.0) rg chromaticity r: 0.181, g: 0.313, b: 0.505 RYB red: 25.882%, yellow: 39.263%, blue: 72.157% Android / android.graphics.Color -12422472 / 0xff4272b8 HSL hsl(216, 47%, 49%) HSLA hsla(216, 47%, 49%, 1.0) HSV / HSB hue: 216° (215.593), saturation: 64% (0.641), value: 72% (0.722) HSP hue: 215.593, saturation: 64.130%, perceived brightness: 44.351% HSL uv (HUSL) H: 252.305, S: 74.459, L: 47.818 Cubehelix H: -147.137, S: 0.703, L: 0.421 TSL T: -1.924, S: 0.206, L: 0.422 CMYK cyan: 64% (0.641), magenta: 38% (0.380), yellow: 0% (0.000), key: 28% (0.278) CMY cyan: 74% (0.741), magenta: 55% (0.553), yellow: 28% (0.278) XYZ X: 16.913, Y: 16.652, Z: 47.661 xyY x: 0.208, y: 0.205, Y: 16.652 CIELab L: 47.818, a: 6.150, b: -41.824 CIELuv L: 47.818, u: -20.332, v: -63.728 CIELCH / LCHab L: 47.818, C: 42.274, H: 278.366 CIELUV / LCHuv L: 47.818, C: 66.893, H: 252.305 Hunter-Lab L: 40.807, a: 2.569, b: -40.684 CIECAM02 J: 36.459, C: 50.147, h: 252.677, Q: 118.964, M: 43.852, s: 60.714, H: 307.341 OSA-UCS lightness: -10.355, jaune: -7.340, green: 2.092 LMS L: 11.807, M: 16.658, S: 47.147 YCbCr Y: 108.450, Cb: 165.834, Cr: 101.958 YCoCg Y: 119.500, Cg: -5.500, Co: -13.000 YDbDr Y: 107.628, Db: 114.910, Dr: 79.174 YPbPr Y: 108.816, Pb: 40.520, Pr: -27.220 xvYCC Y: 109.454, Cb: 163.594, Cr: 104.089 YIQ Y: 107.628, I: -51.083, Q: 11.630 YUV Y: 107.628, U: 37.583, V: -36.521 Okhsl h: 257.831, s: 0.638, l: 0.480 Okhsv h: 257.831. s: 0.678, v: 0.735 Okhwb h: 257.831, w: 0.237, b: 0.265 Oklab l: 0.552, a: -0.026, b: -0.119 Oklch l: 0.552, c: 0.122, h: 257.831 Munsell Color System 7.5PB 4/12 ΔE = 4.141 Brand Color Intel ΔE = 3.130 Random Colors Before you even begin to paint to your models here are some steps that everyone should take regardless of whether they are painting Ultramarines. I love using them as base colours for large armies and glazing over layers on highly detailed miniatures for extra colour saturation. The expansion of the Contrast range with new colours gives hobbyists an amazing opportunity to try different things! The Ultramarines may be the boy scouts of the Adeptus Astartes but they’re far from boring, with lots of unique characters and opportunities for interesting heraldry and special elements like laurel wreaths and cloth. They’re a rewarding faction to paint and play and unique in that regardless of what model you buy, you can always reference the box art for an example of a well painted model. Gold Portions – Base: Retributor Armor > Allover Shade: Reikland Fleshshade > Edge: Auric Armor Gold > Thin Edge: Stormhost SilverBlue-grey: Thunderhawk Blue (note that this is a layer paint) >Nuln Oil pin wash> Russ Grey > Fenrisian Grey Emma: This colour is all about punch, it’s so bright and powerful. Doomfire Magenta straight out of the pot gives you a vivid pink for cloth or magic spells. It also suits Daughters of Khaine or Escher Gangers if you want some cool pink hair colours. Iyanden Yellow and Nazdreg Yellow were a dream for painters when they first dropped – easy-to-achieve yellows in one coat! Bad Moon Yellow provides an even brighter choice, especially over a White Scar undercoat. In addition, most advertising networks offer you a way to opt out of targeted advertising. If you would like to find out more information, please visit http://www.aboutads.info/choices/or http://www.youronlinechoices.com.