JB WELD 8237UK JB8237 Plastic Weld Fast-Setting Off White Multi Purpose Reinforced Epoxy Putty, 57 G

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Once the Putty is shaped, sand it with progressively finer grades of abrasive paper smoothing the Putty and feathering* the edges into the surrounding paint and bumper/trim.

I highly recommend reinforcing your pipe repair bandage with waterproof repair tape, plastic putty, or both. This will prevent any further stress from forming around the bandaged area, and ensure a solid, impact-resistant seal. Final Thoughts Yes, epoxy adhesive offers many benefits including heat-resistance, chemical resistance as well as water resistance. Great to use on those plastic plumbing problems. Apply adhesive. Apply it sparingly to one surface and press the parts together immediately. Hold in place until the bond sets. Do not reposition parts. The best epoxy for plastic is the more durable option when it comes to adhesives, as it can withstand temperatures, UV light, solvents, and can endure a measure of force. We can now move on to some pros and cons of using a two-part epoxy adhesive. It is fair to say that a toilet waste pipe gets a lot of use and although PVC is one of the most resilient materials out there, even it can struggle to cope with what we flush away. When this happens to be the case, you might find yourself wondering how to carry out a soil pipe repair.Apply activator (if applicable). If you are using an activator, apply it to both surfaces unless otherwise indicated. Wait until it has dried completely, then proceed with the adhesive. If you do want to reinforce your repair, then consider buying a pipe repair kit as opposed to individual items. Kits come with both the sealing material and a bandage at a cheaper cost than when buying items individually.

Prepare surfaces. Surfaces should be close fitting (pre-fit before joining), free of residue, and dry. Slightly roughen smooth surfaces to improve results. Whenever you are dealing with adhesives, you will need to match it with the material you are working on. Here are a few examples: Epoxy falls under the reactive adhesives, as it goes through a chemical reaction and then hardens or cures. Epoxy usually consists out of two-parts, the epoxy, and a hardener, which when combined forms a tough layer. Super glue is also a reactive adhesive and can be described as a one-part adhesive, which reacts to environmental conditions like heat. The popular white glue is an example of a non-reactive form of adhesive. If you do get some epoxy onto your skin, the best thing is to act fast. You can either use a cloth dipped into some vinegar and placed over the area or some acetone on the tip of an earbud. Rub onto the adhesive until it comes off. A tip when using epoxy putty, keep your gloves moistened, this will help to make it easier on application and creates a smoother look.

If you now have an area of bare (unprimed) plastic surrounding the repair, you will need to seal the surface to provide a secure foundation for the primer and top coat of paint. We recommend using the E-TECH Technik Plastic Pre-Primer Part No ER00110; follow the instructions on the can. Allow the Putty to fully cure/harden for approx 30 minutes at room temperature. It may take longer to cure in cooler temperatures or if the correct ratio of Putty to hardener is not exact. If you do happen to get any adhesive in the eye you should wash and then go immediately to a doctor. Epoxy adhesives need to be mixed in a precise ratio, but many products come in pre-measured syringes which you can then use to apply. Some epoxy adhesives also come in the form of a two-part putty or paste, which you then have to knead together before application.

For best results ensure the bodywork or part you are working on and the Putty are at room temperature before you start the repair (approx 17°C to 21°C). When the epoxy is still soft, it should be easier to remove. Take and use some acetone, which should help. Using a cloth with the acetone, wipe the area with the glue and it should eventually lift off. When dealing with epoxy that has hardened may be difficult but not impossible. You will first have to soften the epoxy with an adhesive remover. You can also try denatured alcohol or paint thinners. Take a cloth that has been dipped into the remover and wipe the affected area. You should be able to remove the resin without leaving any residue, especially if you have used the correct adhesive remover. Always work in a ventilated space and wear gloves to avoid getting onto your skin. Use the spreader to mix the Putty and Hardener to a ratio of approx a 30mm (3cm) line of Hardener, to approx a 40mm (4cm) diameter ball of Putty (golf ball size). (This is a ratio of approximately 3-4% hardener to 96-97% Putty). Mix until you have a consistent colour. Try not to create air bubbles when mixing the two components. (Once mixed the Putty will start to harden within a few minutes so we advise you only make up an amount that can be applied within this workable timescale).

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Gather materials. Get together all the plastic pieces you want to join. You’ll also need and your adhesive, of course, tissue paper, something to protect your work area, and sandpaper (for bonding smooth surfaces).