Marley Bathroom Extractor Fan 5 Inch 5" In-line Ventilation Without Timer Flexible Ducting Kit Included Wall or Ceiling Mounted Kitchen Bathroom Shower Wet Room WC

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As it’s in a bathroom, although it’s not required, the belt and braces approach is to fit a 3-pole isolation switch so that all potential live points; permanent live, switched live and neutral are isolated when the switch is turned off. A 4-termial junction box is required to connect up the fan, 3-pole switch and the pull switch, and is wired similarly to a ceiling rose or light junction box, utilising connections for earth, neutral, (permanent) live and a switch-live. If this is in a ground floor bathroom, you may need to pull up some floor boards to access and wire up. For both different types of units they can also be tuned on and off through normally 2 different means; they are either wired into the light, so that when it’s turned on the extractor comes on also or they have their own dedicated switch, normally as an isolator outside the bathroom above the door or inside as a pull cord switch. There are several types of pipework but generally it’s best to use the PVC type as when using the aluminium round duct, the fan can echo through it when running creating quite a bit of noise, whereas the PVC type is generally silent.

Once the fan is positioned, the next task is to get it wired up. A suitable length of cable is cut to run from the 3-pole switch out to the fan. Next, the fan should then be connected using 3 core and earth cable (depending on the model the earth may not be required), with the extra cable being used as the switch-live (SL).It must also be possible to isolate the fan by means of a pull cord switch inside the bathroom, or a fan isolation (3-pole) switch outside of the bathroom. Again, if you are working on the ground floor then you may need to pop up some floor boards from above to run cables and access existing lighting circuits.

When it comes to the cable that should be used, as extractor fans are low voltage it’s possible to use 1mm or 1.5mm cable. Also, for timed unit extractor fans, as there is an extra cable you can use 3 core and earth, however if wiring a standard fan with no timed switch, 2 core and earth is fine. Once isolated, the next job is to install the fan isolation switch/3-pole switch. Where this is done will depend on the switch you have.If you are installing an axial through the wall type fan then you may need to run a short section of pipe between the inner and outer sections so that it bridges the cavity as you don’t want to be pumping moist air down into your empty cavity as this will cause untold amounts of issues. My current extractor fan with timer (RDL model G510) has stopped working, so I have bought a replacement - Marley NDX100T. For completeness we will also cover how a standard bathroom extractor fan is wired up to it’s own switch and not an existing light switch. Wiring a Timed Extractor Fan That’s Turned on by an Existing Light Switch

Strip both ends of the cable to suitable lengths (manufacturer should state this in their instructions, if not see our stripping cable project here) and connect the switch end cable to the correct terminals. Firstly the supply from the 3-pole isolator switch should be connected in to the junction box using a suitable 1mm or 1.5mm twin and earth cable to the L, N and E terminals. When connecting up the pipework make sure that you first tape the pipe to the fan body using aluminium tape and then also screw up a large jubilee clip around the pipe. This will ensure a full and compete seal. As we have stated above, if an extractor fan is being installed from scratch then this will need to be done by a qualified Part P registered electrician. However is you are simply replacing an existing broken unit then you are able to do this yourself. An extractor fan is an essential part of any bathroom as it helps to remove the excess moist and humid air produced by the shower and keep any condensation build up to a minimum.Apologies if this question has been asked before, but I have browsed and cannot see exactly what I am after. As with the steps above, either a shower isolator switch is used that is normally installed outside the bathroom above the door or it’s possible to use a 3-pole pull cord switch that is usually installed in zone 3 inside the bathroom. When wired to its own switch, the switch itself will either be located outside of the bathroom, normally above the door or it can be inside as long as it’s in the correct zone and is a pull cord switch. We have concentrated on the actual wiring in this section, rather than the other elements of the installation. If you want to know about these, simply work through the steps in the section above.

Please be careful taking advise off any Wiki, book or Forum before undertaking your own wiring if you are not 100% confident. There's a very good reason electrician's training takes so long and is strictly regulated by the IEE et al. As we have briefly touched on, there are 2 main methods for turning a bathroom extractor fan on and off. You can either wire it into the bathroom lights so that when they are turned on the fan comes on at the same time or you can wire it to its own switch. Putting that aside, I appreciate that people taking the time out to reply are doing so unpaid but I've yet to find a member of the Samaritans, for example, who would resort to sarcasim when the umpteenth person calls in on thier shift to say they've had eenough of life. Mind you, if breezer's diagrams are anything like his wiring, there will be a few less potential customers going about. Although not necessarily required by the regulations, it’s still a great idea to do. Also, ensure that you do actually use a 3-pole isolation switch as they are much more complete than a standard switch as they isolate all 3 wires that need isolating; permanent live, switched live and the neutral.This wiring diagram shows an easy to follow configuration for a bathroom extractor fan fitted with a timer, that’s not going to be turned on by the existing light switch. Instead, we are going to install a new switch that will turn the fan on and off. Next, the fan itself needs to be installed. How this is done will depend entirely on what type of fan is being installed.