Fibre / Fibreglass Abrasive Cleaning Pencil / Pen & 5 Refills

Product Information

The whole approach is to get the solder to take to the base metal, and any oxide on the metal stops the process, all the flux does is clean with acid whilst the surface is hot, and then keeps air off it till the metal bonds.

Fibreglass Abrasive Pencil / Pen Refill for PCB Fibre Pen x 5 Fibreglass Abrasive Pencil / Pen Refill for PCB Fibre Pen x 5

Of course you all know what is going to happen tonight; just after rubbing down a messy bit of soldering an odd itching feeling will appear in my fingertips... Agree. I use Carr's yellow as it doesn't rust one's tools and doesn't leave green deposits on brass. It may have disadvantages that I'm not aware of, but I've used it for 5 years and it gets things built....Taken some weathering powders off using a glass fibre brush and put on some transfers, just got to finish the weathering and make some loads and they're done. I use Carr's yellow as it doesn't rust one's tools and doesn't leave green deposits on brass. It may have disadvantages that I'm not aware of, but I've used it for 5 years and it gets things built.... For cleaning brass: I use Trollull brand, oil-free '0000' grade wirewool (in a box/roll); it`s simple and cleans/burnishes beautifully........for small areas/corners I hold a small chunk of it in tweezers. so you can remove those unsightly solder stains seen on so many assembled kits.Far better is to learn to use less solder in the first place

Fibreglass pen •• Barrelling and Cleaning - Regton

Most water based flux is phosphoric acid based, harmless, and stops rust as well. The Eco alternatives are citric acid and other mild acid solutions. These may allow rusting to occur after drying off. Here you go Steve. I apply Humbrol powders then once happy, I seal them with a LIGHT pass of Humbrol Matt acrylic varnish. Too much and it be too wet. This will lose the variations in colour. Saying all this, I'd agree with what a number of people have already said in this thread - I prefer to use only the solder I need (and no more) in the first place. If there is excess solder, my preference would be to cut it away - using electronics "edge cutters", an old chisel or a scraper - before finally smoothing the surface using a file, an emery board or Garryflex.Garryflex is colour coded, according to grade. There is a list printed on the side of the card wrapper - which may, or may not, be readable in the photo earlier in this thread: This is ideal for a variety of uses. It can remove printing from the side of locos, coaches and wagons, clean points for improved electrical conductivity and loco wheels, commutators, and “untarnishes” metals, like coupling rods of steam locos and diesel shunters.

Glass fibre pencil - 4mm | RS

The burnishing from the fibre brush can be dealt with a final light application of matt varnish once you've removed the powder. Over the years, I've used this stuff for a number of purposes - and have generally found the medium to be the most useful of the lot - followed by fine (which I've sometimes used for cleaning circuit boards). This Modelcraft Glass Fibre Pencil will make your model work shine! The pencil can clean metals, plastics and woods ready to be worked on or be used to brighten your projects.Remember it is not just the flux, but the way it is used, the metal must be pre-cleaned, the iron spotless, and well tinned, with 60/40 lead solder, even if modern tin based eco solder is used. the 60/40 is easily available, and is the traditional tinning solder. Tinning the iron is vital to the whole process, and it is repeated every so often as the work proceeds.