Radiator Expansion Water Tank Cap Compatible for Fiesta Focus C-Max Mondeo

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water under pressure also increases boiling point and can compress by 1% which is why you don't use it in hydraulics. One thing I have noticed is that the fan doesn't seem to come on if I run the heater inside the car. I remember a similar problem over fifty years ago with my mother's Triumph 1300, which gradually lacked power and got hot quickly. The gas test on the coolant isn't infallible - the Hyundai dealer spent 18 months doing the test and denying any issue with the head gasket on my Santa Fe and only accepted it had blown after it "blew up" on the motorway and even then couldn't find the exact issue when they took the head off. I sprayed it around the outer edge of the stuck part, waited 15 minutes, prised with a couple of screwdrivers and it came out quite easily!

If not, I drill the centre out with a 3 mm drill bit, flick the centre bits out, then screw a big bolt in the centre. If the problem was the head all along why did it only start doing this after the coolant leak had been fixed? The running temp (on the dashboard at least) seems to be normal, the only thing that's changed is that the fan boots in a lot sooner than it ever had done beforehand (I don't really expect it to have to come on for a 25 minute drive on residential roads).If there was no overheating, the water pump replacement is a bit suspect, but is unlikely to have caused a head gasket failure, which seems to be suspected by the OP.

You can of course improve your personal cooling a bit with various supplementary fan and evaporative solutions.Beyond that all I can think of, assuming you’ve checked that your radiator fan is working, that the radiator itself is clear, and you have carefully straightened any bent cooling fins, would be fitting a second fan, which might be difficult or impossible. unclip the two upper hoses by hand, unclip tank from the holding plates, drain in jar through the openings where you unclipped the houses, use the pliers to unclamp the main hose, pull the tank away from the hose. Also it’s fairly new reservoir and I presume the cap /was also may have had a new radiator recently, but now it started to leak again , noticed the levels been going down again. Not entirely sure why this is, but in all honesty I know next to nothing about the internal workings of cars, hence why I went to a mechanic in the first place! I don't much like doing it, but I think its less risky than your suggested laissez faire air alternative.

It groans and makes a hell of a noise as soon as I put it on, but seems to get better after warming up. If so the coolant circuit will have been at least partially drained, with the possibility of residual airlocks somewhere such as the heater circuit. The radiator/fan does seem to kick in a lot sooner than it had ever done prior to the work, however. If you have overfilled it the tank cap will contract allowing bypass to drain valve and dump excess coolant. IF the air pocket is stuck in the cylinder head then you will have an hot point whether you are running up hill or on the flat.It remains on 90 if I keep the fan on, but the engine fan creates a hell of a noise (not that it matters if it is working). It will however, also slow your engines warmup times, and if you’ve got any starting difficulties now, perhaps from a bit of coolant getting into the cylinders, they’ll probably get worse. so, in the past 8 months its had a brand new head gasket, brand new thermostat, brand new coolant tank cap. I suppose you could “tune” it with a blanking plate with a hole in it, to provide less but still some restriction.

The pressure valve is still fine, put the cap back on and drives with no issues, its just that the expansion water has dropped a smidge and I'd like to fix this before I 'have to' IYSWIM. My main concern is that if I drive it without the internal fan on to accommodate for some of the extra heat, the temperature of the engine (on the dashboard, at least) begins to very slowly climb above 90 degrees. Less permanently you could remove the whole bonnet, but I donno how legal that would be in the famously anal UK.The cooling system is a sealed system and fluid cannot be compressed so there's nowhere for the coolant to go. It is only when it gets bigger that the signs become more obvious with expulsion of coolant and/or the oil appearing as mayonnaise on the dipstick. I enquired at my main dealer, who said that VW have now changed the intervals to 60000, with the 5 year change being unnecessary, but it. I try and be as cynical about garages as the next man, (though/so/because I have hardly ever used them apart from MOT's) BUT I think the innocent-until-serious-grounds-for-suspicion principle ought to be applied.