Caig Labs DeOxit Contact Cleaner D5

Product Information

May be used where fast evaporation and/or non-flammability is required, and no dripping is preferred. It is also safe on plastics. I had some daughter boards come out of thermal cycle and I was having problems with them passing test. My thought was, cheap, bad connectors warped during all those hot/cold cycles. the company had this woman, I know for a fact she was over 70, that had worked with the company forever, like, employee #1 or something, before I was born I know, and her job, no sh!t, was to do detail solder repairs on stuff others messed up and could not do, I’m talking repairing 8mm traces, replacing vias, components, on 4 layer PCBs. Stuff that should go into the trash but was waaaaay to expensive to scrap. Also do not confuse D100L which is listed as the ingredient in Deoxit D5 with Deoxit D100. If you want 100% Deoxit (no solvents) look for D100 or D100S-2 on the label of the can.

Use DeoxIT when your musical equipment is experiencing loss, such as turning a potentiometer or a switch and creating an unpleasant noise, even a cable connector. DeoxIT can be used on an instrument or any other electronic hardware that relies on knobs and switches, which are prone to dust and oxidation from exposure to atmospheric changes. Likewise, if there are any intermittencies in your signal or if your power supplies are not lasting as long as they should, a spray or wipe of DeoxIT will go Where to Apply CAIG DeoxIT D5 DeoxIT Fader Lube is a precision lubricant specifically formulated to improve conductivity and lubricate conductive plastic and carbon compound faders, switches and other similar components. Over time these components lose their original lubrication from wear and/or repeated cleaning. Dust, dirt, drink spills and other contamination also degrade the components' lubricant. The need for re-lubrication is necessary to avoid excess wear and abrasion to the plastic surfaces. Look forward for this being an all in one thread with people sharing tips instead of getting a little here and there. Improves conductivity and reduces intermittent connections. Reduces arcing, RFI, wear and abrasion. Cleaner Audio – Clearer Video – Reliable Data.

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Some knobs, often the larger ones like the volume knob, have a tiny screw set down inside a small hole on their side, which anchors them to the shaft. With those, you need to use a tiny-sized allen wrench to loosen that, before the knob can be pulled off. Sometimes you'll need a jeweller's screwdriver (Phillips head), but almost all of the brands require allen wrenches instead. Usually these are about 1.5mm in size. Both sets of small allen wrenches and jeweller's screwdrivers can be found cheaply at any good hardware store. Get a set of the really tiny ones, and one of them should fit. Start by re-attaching the faceplate and knobs, if you took them off (you probably didn't, anyway). Then re-attach the bottom plate (including the feet, if you removed them). Last of all, replace the top cover. I must have lived in a oxygen poor and dust free home because non of my consoles or games never needed “blowing”. IMPORTANT REMINDER: You DO NOT USE DeOXIT OR ANY OTHER CLEANER ON RELAYS!!! Just dry clean them with paper (or very, very fine sandpaper/emery paper).

So I prefer the 5 oz (142 gram) Deoxit D5 (which has more solvents and flushing action for cleaning) and/or Faderlube F5 (for more lube) for just about all my cleaning applications. Just my preference. I won't detail the process for removing the faceplate itself on a particular model, but give general instructions, as it will vary from model to model and usually isn't necessary, anyway. Either a little mascara brush (or two) or a couple pipe cleaners and/or some Q-tips (the kind that don't come apart easily). If you buy one of the DeOxit kits that comes with some little things like these, then that's all you'll need. You might also want a few paper towels.

Here’s my beef with all the “experience trumps book learning” types: when you really understand the part and know how it works in theory, the failure modes are also going to be apparent. I’ve seen guys who genuinely believe that theory “doesn’t work”, i.e. you need some magical personal touch that cannot be transmitted by simply describing the case. For EACH of the above things you've cleaned (pots and switches), AFTER cleaning them with the DeOxit red stuff, you'll want to follow-up with a shot of DeOxit ProLube or DeOxit GOLD, to lubricate and protect the switches. Just spray it in there and work the knobs a couple times to spread it around. You don't need to work the knob dozens of times for this step, since you aren't trying to scrape off oxidation any more, just spread the lubricant.