ProGold Xtreme Chain Lubricant 4oz, Yellow, One Size

Product Information

ProLink is billed as a “metal friction reducer.” It comes with a lot of hype, claiming benefits like smoother, quieter shifting; preventing corrosion; repelling moisture; shedding dirt. But the thing is, our experience says it’s all true. The drivetrain stays clean — not as squeaky clean as with a dry lube like White Lightning, but it won’t make a mess on your pristine road machine. If you take the time to look after your bike well, or you’re a racer or rider of a super high-end bike in the sunshine then dry lube is the way to go, and we found these were the most popular among the road.cc team, in particular Squirt chain lube, which is tenacious enough to use in crummy conditions too. I waxed 6 new chains and then just rewax when required (so far I've only needed to do the indoor trainer bike's chain). Should I actually be cleaning off an outdoor chain before rewaxing? Looked at some standard grease in a hardware shop at the weekend - decided to send off for some TF2, a fraction of the quantity, because it's labelled as "for bikes".

PROGOLD Lubricants Extensive Review - Bike Test Reviews PROGOLD Lubricants Extensive Review - Bike Test Reviews

Thorough cleaning seems more important than choice of chainlube. You can wipe the chain down till you're blue in the face but the damaging grit is on the INSIDE.I was a devout R&R gold user and ran a long term test using the stuff according to their instructions which don't mention cleaning – just flooding on and wiping off – versus the same lube with a weekly clean in one of those round brushy things (two different bikes run concurrently). Chain wear measured by steel rule. thoroughly clean the chain, (b) dry the chain with a soft cloth, and (c) apply a drop of ProLink to each link, both the top and the bottom of the chain. Do this before each ride (or as often as you can) and you will be able to achieve the most miles that your chain is capable of. And if you’re wondering why you can’t use WD40 or GT85, they’re water displacement products and should only really be used after cleaning your bike and before correct lubrication. They have some lubricating properties, and plenty of uses on bikes and round the house, but they're not up to the job of keeping a bike chain properly protected.

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The second application survived some pretty foul weather, the Dartmoor Devil audax (muddy, grim) and is just running dry after over 300 miles. That's really quite remarkable.” matthewn5: Singer sewing machine oil. Cheap and lasts for ever. I use Muc-off wet lube as a flushing oil to clean the chain, wipe it off, then apply sewing maching oil, wiping off excess. The chain feels so plush afterwards, it's lovely. Wax doesn't seem to last as long in Winter as I'd like, but I've gotten used to wiping off and re-waxing my chain after rides (not before) and leaving it to dry overnight. I've not stretched to two-chains per bike, though technically there'd be no real hassle involved. Taking a chain off takes seconds these days, and shaking it clean in a bottle of solvent a few minutes. Ditto dipping it in wax and hanging it. PRSboy: Squirt seems to be the holy grail of lubes, as long as you don't mind reapplying after a wet ride. I've been most impressed.

Ice Wax 2.0 from Pedro's is a chain lubricant that aims to reduce the time you spend cleaning your chain, by doing it for you in part. A lube for dry conditions, it's perfect for summer riding. Includes Rust and Corrosion Inhibitors. EPX is compatible with all ordinary greases, except silicone, and will not Chain lube should not cost an arm and a leg. Even our favorite lubes really, should be cheaper. I wish we found a cheap, bio lube that we could sell. But as it is, the two lubes we offer are pretty cheap, in the scheme of things. I left the factory lube on like Sheldon Brown suggests, but after as little at 200 miles the chain was already 0.5% stretched. I had been using White Lightning. Perhaps putting ProLink over that was a mistake. Whatever, drivetrain noise increased and shifting deteriorated. I seemed to need to reapply after 100 miles or less, contrasted with 200 miles or so for WL.

ProGold ProLink Chain Lube Review - Road Bike Rider Cycling Site

It's simplest on a new/clean drivetrain, you just need to degrease/clean/dry the chain then wash in the hot wax. So there is some outlay in electric hotpot, thermometer, wax and degreasing/cleaning chemicals.

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Argus Tuft replied to hawkinspeter: Ta HP - I found it worked as well as the bought stuff.I've moved on to using a home made "candle" of wax with a dash of grease applied to a chain freshly warmed with a heat gun. Any dirt seems to fall away. No cleaning required. Use a suitable heat shield between chain and wheel. ProLink Chain Lube is a ‘thin-bodied’ lubricant which utilizes metal friction reducer technology for smooth shifting and a quiet drive train. Out on the road is the real test. I have tested this lube in dry conditions, windy conditions, sand, rain, have ridden through mud, dirt, grit and gravel. I have hammered on flat time trials and pushed all kinds of gearing up steep hills, just to see

ProLink Chain Lube Review - Road Bike Rider Cycling Site ProLink Chain Lube Review - Road Bike Rider Cycling Site

Having said that, chain cleaning is a lousy job, so I now use the insitu hot waxing described above. He was heavily involved in the mountain bike boom of the late 1980s as a racer, team manager and race promoter, and that led to writing for Mountain Biking UK magazine shortly after its inception. He got the gig by phoning up the editor and telling him the magazine was rubbish and he could do better. Rather than telling him to get lost, MBUK editor Tym Manley called John’s bluff and the rest is history. fukawitribe replied to r.glancy: I've found Squirt stays on pretty well (for me anyway) even in the wet - very clean, very easy to apply, not so cheap. I've not tried Smoove yet but heard good things about running it, not so much the actual prep and application, probably give it a whirl at some point though. Conventional wisdom points to a wet lube for wet winter cycling, and a dry lube for summer cycling when it’s dry and conditions are good. It’s a good rule of thumb to follow and you won’t go wrong if you choose this approach. Cafe wisdom: road.cc readers weigh in on chain lubricants With the changeable summer weather we had during testing a once a month clean of the chain and re-lube with the Pedro's kept everything running smoothly. You'll need to re-apply more often in winter.”Argus Tuft: I'm with bikespud. Wax every time. Boeshield (T47?), White Lightning – It's just wax dissolved in solvent. It even says as much on the Boeshield bottle. Make your own and use heaps. It's almost free! Squirt lube easily survived 30-odd miles of normal commuting in all weathers, at which point it faced about the sternest test possible: 40 miles in the salt, snow and rain finishing up on the muddy, puddle-strewn canal towpath. I wouldn't expect any lube to survive that and the chain showed some evidence of rust the next day after a hose down, but it wasn't noisy - there was still some lube in there, so it's pretty tenacious stuff.