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Games Workshop Citadel Pot de Peinture - Layer Liberator Gold

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When the battle lines form and the rows of Stormcast Eternals charge, the Celestar Ballista adds a dose of firepower to cut down the enemies of Sigmar. With the size of the barrels you could easily mistake it for a quad-barrelled heavy bolter with some fancy mounting, but the ballista is worth it’s weight in plastic. A start to finish tutorial for the ballista can be found on our Youtube Channel, while the other crewman will be up as a video tutorial on 2nd March 2020. Adding more layers – I highlight the cabling with Moot Green to give it a brighter look that pops against the dark armor. I edge highlight the Bolter with Evil Sunz Scarlet and use Mephiston Red and Evil Sunz Scarlet to build up the cloth tabard. The eye lenses are Mephiston Red with a spot of Evil Sunz Scarlet. I also wash the leather parts with Agrax Earthshade and Nuln Oil.

When it comes to pairing colors with Liberator Gold, it’s important to consider color theory and the principles of complementary, split-complementary, and analogous color combinations.

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It all starts with a base coat of Zandri Dust Spray and a heavy drybrush of Morghast Bone . Following that I use Agrax Earthshade to do a recess shade before highlighting every edge I can reach with White Scar . The model is then covered with a heavily thinned layer of Iyanden Yellow Contrast applied using the biggest brush I can fit in the pot. Once dry, I apply another White Scar highlight, only hitting the forward facing edges this time, before again drenching the model in thinned Iyanden Yellow. A last highlight of White Scar, focused on the most prominent points of the armour and a third and final layer of Iyanden Yellow finishes the job, and gives a wonderfully smooth yellow. Gadge: Mantis Warriors Thanks for reading, and keep your eyes peeled for part 2 in the next couple of weeks. In the mean time there’s the full Ballista crew video linked at the top of this post to keep you going. Do an EXTREMELY thin line of White Scar Air (I used the layer. The air would be so much easier though) in various bits.

Imperial Guard: The Imperial Guard, also known as the Astra Militarum, is the primary infantry force of the Imperium. They are known for their large numbers and heavy machinery, including tanks and artillery. Liberator Gold is a great choice for highlighting the armor and weapons of the Imperial Guard, as it gives them a gleaming, metallic look that perfectly fits the image of a well-equipped and well-trained military force. You can see my method of painting the white shoulder symbol on the Celestar Ballista crew video around the 17 minute mark. Coat with Nuln Oil – Most of the infantry I paint follows a basecoat > shade > coat > highlight process, and that’s true here. Cover your model in Nuln Oil, and hit the lower areas and edges with a second coat of Nuln Oil.I am an indifferent painter at best, so the obvious choice was a Chapter featuring a lot of white, the hardest colour for Space Marine armour. The Mentor Legion have not historically mustered in strength, being too busy swanning around the galaxy teaching other Imperial forces how to shoot straight and so forth, but the Leviathan threat is clearly so enormous that they’re now deploying as an army. This is the first Warhammer 40,000 vehicle I’ve painted in the 21st Century! It began with a base of Leadbelcher Spray , followed by two layers of Dark Angels Green on the armour plates, I then edge-highlighted it with Waaagh! Flesh . I used Basilicanum Grey and Ratling Grime on the metals, with Iron Hands Steel as a highlight. For the classic red weaponry, I used Flesh Tearers Red and Baal Red Contrast, highlighted with Wild Rider Red . Retributor Gold shaded with Agrax Earthshade worked for the gold elements, and I had Baneblade Brown with Seraphim Sepia applied to the scrollwork and purity seals. I'm currently using GW Citadel metallic paints but they're running low and I need to re-up. I'm thinking of switching to the newer metallic paints. Basecoat with Night Lords Blue – The new Night Lords Blue is great. It’s a little more saturated than Kantor Blue, and it’s the right darkness level to start with. Give your primed mini two thin coats of Night Lords Blue, and put an extra thin layer on the top spots to make them a little bluer. The VMA range also have metallic colours - blue, red, etc. The blue is fantastic, but the red isn't as metallic as I'd hoped. You can mix in some silver paint to make them more metallic, and then use some inks or Tamiya clear to deepen the colour intensity, so it's still worth trying them out and seeing how they work for you.

Shade the shit out of the entire model with Drakenhoff Nightshade. Really go to town on this. GW reccos Nuln Oil for this, but I feel that destroys the really nice blue you get if you use Drakenhoff. The three lightest silvers (Aluminium, Chrome and Sliver) are all the same as far as I can tell. I bought and used all three, and I just cannot see any difference. Retibutor has only one other competitor for a Base gold paint, and that's Balthasar Gold. I have to say, as a gold paint, it far outshines its predecessor. That's not to say Balthasar is bad, in fact I love that paint. If you are being fair though Balthasar Gold isn't really a gold paint, it's more accurately a brass or copper. Retributor Gold though is exactly what it says it is. It's a rich, deep, and fairly bright gold color. I am beyond excited that I finally have a real gold Base paint.

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Red: Mephiston Red is a deep, rich red that can be used as an analogous color to Liberator Gold. This color combo creates a sense of warmth and energy, making it perfect for highlighting the details of the metallic elements of your miniatures.

Edge highlighting – The metal and gold parts get an edge highlight of Ironbreaker, and I use the same color for the rivets. For the armor, I do an edge highlight with The Fang and the another smaller edge highlight with Snow Shadow on the corners and top edges. I edge the leather parts with Mournfang Brown. I do a standard gemstone pattern on the gemstone on his shoulder pad. The Warhammer 40K universe is full of diverse factions and armies, each with their own unique aesthetic and color scheme. When it comes to painting with Liberator Gold, there are a few armies that particularly stand out as a great fit. The armour is my standard and much loved (possibly by me alone) gold method, it’s simple and effective. Initially the miniature was sprayed with Citadel Retributor Armour, but the pot of Retributor Armour gives a nice smooth layer too, so either works. It’s then been washed with Citadel Agrax Earthshade before having Retrbutor Armour reapplied, leaving the Agrax Earthshade in the recesses. To highlight I used Citadel Liberator Gold on all the areas I think would be catching the light the most, then I did one more extreme highlight of Liberator Gold mixed with Vallejo Model Air Chrome. For the love of god, don’t do the armour 1st. Start with the fresh hell that is gold trim on chaos marines. Finish the model off with some basing. I do all of my Night Lords with snow/winter bases. So for most of them, I paint the base with Reaper Ghost White, then I cover the base with Valhallan Blizzard texture paint. I used to use Mourn Mountain Snow for this but that stuff looked like white dirt, and the new texture paint looks much more like actual snow.

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After painting the main colours I always enjoy adding details to the armour. This is mostly custom warpaint, a few bits of script, and on some of the bigger models I paint some feathers. These little details always make a big difference to my Space Marines, giving them each some extra character.* Darcy: Imperial Fists Joel’s Raven Guard force will be on display at the Leeds Warhammer store at some point in the near future. Pop in and see them! Brother Mortis is armed and ready for war! This mighty Ballistus Dreadnought joins the ranks of my Ultramarines 2nd Company to purge the enemies of mankind from afar.

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