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Posted 20 hours ago

Fenwicks Stealth Road Bike Chain Lube - Black, 100 ml

£9.9£99Clearance
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hawkinspeter replied to Argus Tuft: I've tried paraffin wax myself, but I didn't use any solvent with it. I used to melt the wax in a small frying pan and put the chain in it. Then, sprinkle some micronised graphite on top of the chain and put some paraffin wax granules on top so that they melt and carry the graphite into the chain. Swill around a bit and then remove the chain and let it cool. Once cool, spend a bit of time removing excess wax and flexing each joint of the chain and then pop it on the bike.

No matter what type of bike product your buying, from the simple accessories through to the full setup of your custom built road bike, there are lots of important considerations that you should take into account, especially when you’re shopping online and unable to test the product first. This is especially true when you’re buying products like Lubes Cleaning. The best bicycle chain lubes get right into the links of your chain to lubricate it, and then stay there. The latest chain lubes include fiendishly clever additives which allow them to coat metal surfaces without attracting crud. They're expensive, but arguably worth the money if you're running an expensive transmission and want to prolong its life.From a cost/benefit viewpoint, there's no point spending more on hi-tec unguents than you're saving on drivetrain wear. matthewn5: Singer sewing machine oil. Cheap and lasts for ever. I use Muc-off wet lube as a flushing oil to clean the chain, wipe it off, then apply sewing maching oil, wiping off excess. The chain feels so plush afterwards, it's lovely. Regular, correct application of lube is an important process to ensure the smooth and efficient running of your bike. A wet lube from the team's supplier, Juice Lubes, is my default choice year-round. I prefer to have a lube on the drivetrain to cover all weather.

Looked at some standard grease in a hardware shop at the weekend - decided to send off for some TF2, a fraction of the quantity, because it's labelled as "for bikes". Tester Steph writes: “As a dry lube, it is designed for mixed riding, but mainly in dry conditions (it will work with the odd puddle or splash). The wax is supposed to wear off over time, and in the process of doing this, it leaves a cleaner chain by taking off any grime with it. Dry lube comes out of the bottle wet, commonly a fast-flowing liquid but once it dries it leaves a wax film on the chain. It’s this wax that provides the necessary lubrication, the liquid is simply the carrier for the wax. Argus Tuft replied to hawkinspeter: Ta HP - I found it worked as well as the bought stuff.I've moved on to using a home made "candle" of wax with a dash of grease applied to a chain freshly warmed with a heat gun. Any dirt seems to fall away. No cleaning required. Use a suitable heat shield between chain and wheel.

About

Price, as you would imagine, is the most popular reason for someone buying one product over another. It is the single most important factor in choosing the majority of products we buy. The same goes for Lubes Cleaning.

For riders seeking a really clean, long-lasting lubricant, Stealth should be high on the list. Verdict Wet lubes can be used all year, offer better value and have the greatest longevity. Whether wet or dry, it’s often a question of how much time and effort you want to put in. Get recipient chains surgically clean, shake the bottle and then apply the metallic grey fluid to every link, holding some rag beneath to catch any overspill. Big brands are typically a good place to put your money, and these companies pay lots of money to professional cyclists to advertise their goods.

But what do you need to look out for when shopping for cycling gear? What are the best brands? What kit is really necessary? Do you really need it? Boatsie: I used vegetable oil once. Smooth as.. At end of ride I must have collected a sandbox worth of sand though.. Grindy as. All lubes work better on a properly cleaned chain with no embedded grit, grime or old lube, so get yourself some chain cleaner at the same time as the lube. It makes sense to match brands too as some are specifically designed to work together. On review, we found that our chain remained rust-free after our 'garden hose test' that we used to replicate wet weather. A ride in the rain followed and the chain again showed no signs of rust or stiff links. We also liked that, unlike some wet lubes, Green Oil didn't attract too much dirt and grime that can really wear the drivetrain.

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