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Lonely Planet Pocket Marrakesh: top sights, local life, made easy (Travel Guide)

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Many visitors come to Marrakesh in the spring or fall to avoid the chill of winter and the heat of summer, but at any time of year, one of the most rewarding experiences you can have is taking a day trip to the quiet cool of the surrounding mountain valleys. Known for its nightlife, trendy restaurants and hip bars in the Gueliz and Hivernage areas, Moroccans from across the kingdom head to Marrakesh too to celebrate the start of the New Year. A night out may cost more than in London or New York, though it typically includes dinner and lively entertainment, with party-goers dressed to kill. La Bahia (The Beautiful) is an 8000-sq-metre, floor-to-ceiling extravagance of intricate marquetry, plasterwork and zouak (painted wood), and certainly one of Marrakesh's most eye-popping sights.

Kâat Ben Nahid is not a major shopping district. However, you'll find the occasional gem sandwiched in between the main museums. Just west of the pavilion, a highlight is the room housing the Koutoubia minbar (prayer pulpit). Once the minbar of the Koutoubia Mosque, its cedar-wood steps with gold and silver calligraphy were the work of 12th-century Cordoban artisans headed by a man named Aziz – the Metropolitan Museum of Art restoration surfaced his signature. Sandwiched between the Petit Riad and the Grand Riad, you'll pass through two courtyards. The first is relatively plain, but the second, called the Grand Cour or Cour d'Honneur, is the undisputed heart of the palace and one of the most spectacular open spaces ever to be conceived in Morocco. It is 1500 sq metres in size and was restored to its original brilliance in 2018. The floor is a vast expanse of Italian Carrara marble, encircled by a gallery uniquely coloured with bright blue and yellow plaster and woodwork.If you like rummaging for second-hand goods, Thursday and Sunday are the best days for finding treasures at Souk El Khemis in the north of the Medina. Florence d'Arabia, a vintage shop, has interesting finds. Total average daily cost for 3 meals, accommodation, and a small budget for activities is around Dh600 per person. It is easier to negotiate if you are buying more than one item. For example, to buy one scarf you can get the price to maybe €7-8, but if you are buying four, it’s much easier to get them down to €5 each. Bus No 12 from Bab Doukkala heads past Jardin Majorelle. If you want to walk, it's a 10-minute stroll from Bab Doukkala. Head up Avenue Moulay Abdullah and then turn right onto Ave Yacoub El Mansour.

On the Atlantic coast, cooling breezes and misty fog keep summer temperatures down to around 80°F , while inland, temperatures can soar to well over 100°F . Agadir , Dakhla and Essaouira are particularly popular with domestic travelers in August thanks to the long sunny days and lifeguard-protected beaches. Roll up, roll up: if there's one thing you can't miss in Marrakesh, it's the reeling, free-wheeling circus that is Djemaa El Fna. This chaotic square is the heart and soul of Marrakesh, where snakes are charmed by day, music troupes shimmy and shake at night and hordes of hungry revelers come to chow down at food stalls. In recent years, more sleeping options have opened in the Mellah, which has a more local vibe. Place des Ferblantiers is about a 10-minute walk from the Djemaa El Fna, a little further away from the heart of the medina but easier to access by taxi, which can be useful for visitors with children or walking issues.

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Along with Mouassine, Kâat Ben Nahid is the core of the old medina, with scrawls of close-knit alleyways hiding sumptuous 17th-century riads. On its western edge is the Mnebhi Palace, now the Musée de Marrakech. This is also where you'll find Ali Ben Youssef Medersa, a clutch of excellent museums and, to the east, one of the medina's poorest districts, home to the malodorous Bab Debbagh tanneries.

Bab Doukkala in particular is a wonderful window into authentic Marrakshi life without the tourist trappings. This neighborhood has all the fun of medina life with little of the wear-you-down hassle that's commonplace in the souqs. Unsurprisingly, this makes it one of the nicest quarters to book riad accommodation, and there are some lovely options. Inside the gardens, the former servants' quarters house Café Majorelle, a lovely, leafy spot for tea or cake. Just outside the entrance of Jardin Majorelle, MyKawa serves salads, sandwiches and Moroccan breakfasts with a dash of Mediterranean style. How to get to Jardin Majorelle For more luxurious touches, Dar Attajmil offers a personalized experience emphasizing coziness, elegance and the art of slowing down. Double rooms start from Dh990 per day for two people and include breakfast; stay five nights and receive a 10% discount. Morocco is a fantastic year-round vacation destination, but choosing the best time of year to travel will depend on your interests and holiday needs.

Only a handful of top-end hotels have accessibly designed rooms. Booking ground-floor rooms is essential as few hotels have elevators, but accommodation in Gueliz is more likely to have them. Vision- or hearing-impaired travellers are poorly catered for. Hearing loops, Braille signs and talking pedestrian crossings are nonexistent. Marrakesh is synonymous with charming architecture and warm hospitality and, thankfully, this can be found in all price categories, whether you sleep on a local's sofa through Couchsurfing or rent a room via AirBnb. The city also has excellent hostels, with spots like Equity Point and Central House Hostel offering high standards of accommodation in both dorms and private rooms. Plus, they're great for mingling with like-minded travelers. Stay longer and book direct for luxe digs

Many people will advise you not to drive in the city center, as the chaotic and narrow Medina streets can be challenging for the most patient drivers. But if you're staying outside the Medina or planning to visit Marrakesh as part of a longer self-drive itinerary, you'll probably want a car. The cheapest rentals are at the airport, along with reputable agencies and vehicles. If you need a budget friendly place to stow your car while you explore the Medina, drop it off at the secure 24/7 Koutobia Parking located right across the street. It costs Dh10 per hour and Dh35 overnight. Take your breakfast out

Thuya wood items 

For a real hammam experience, join the locals for a scrub down at Hammam Mouassine, one of the cheapest (recommended) options. If you prefer to spend more on a private hammam ritual, an independent spa such as Hammam de La Rose charges from Dh300 upward. Know how to shop Don’t worry if you feel uncomfortable, especially starting off. Haggling is the culture of Morocco, it’s an expectation, and an experience in and of itself. If you happen to wander through less touristy areas, you’ll likely see locals haggling in French or Arabic as well, carrying baskets around to gather their groceries. The biggest difference you’ll see are the goods; kettles, electric fans, and piles of t-shirts and jeans. What to buy in Marrakesh Lanterns Majorelle’s electric-blue art deco studio houses the fabulous Musée Berbère, which showcases the rich panorama of Morocco’s indigenous inhabitants in displays of some 600 artifacts, including wood and metalwork, textiles and a room of regional traditional costumes displayed with the flair of a catwalk show. Best of all is the brilliant mirrored chamber displaying a collection of chiseled, filigreed and enameled jewels. Villa Oasis Gardens

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