The proposed title is: CineStill CS41 Liquid Developing Quart Kit for Processing C-41 Color Negative Film

Product Information

We really hope this doesn`t happen but if it does then we only charge you for the development of your film. The Flic Film kit does take a little longer than a regular C41 kit to develop a roll, and I do wish they would give more information in the pamphlet that comes with the developer. But as it stands, I firmly believe that this is the best option for film photographers on the market. As I was developing 120 film first the 3 tanks let me develop 5 rolls of film. (You can develop 2 rolls of 120 film or 3 rolls of 35mm in a 3 roll tank. 1 roll of 120 or 2 rolls of 35mm can be developed in a 2 reel tank). Drying film developing equipment

Reminder: you do not need a darkroom to develop your film. after the film is safely sealed in the development tank, you will not have to worry about it being exposed to light and you can complete the process in normal lighting conditions. If you are a normal person and heat your house or if you have partner and kids that demand the thermostat to be set to 25 degrees all year then this wont be applicable to you. If you’re trying to save money, you can use distilled water for the developer only. The developer is the most sensitive and is the main chemical that affects the quality of results. The blix is relatively stable in comparison. In addition to following the standard directions for C-41 home-processing please add the following steps.BREAKING NEWS! If you are processing at home with our very own C-41 Kit you can SHOOT and PROCESS any C-41 film AND you can also develop the awesome Kodak Vision 3 line of color motion picture films! Read on!

Step 2: Developing - Before starting, make sure that you have everything you need within easy reach - your chemicals, the sink and faucet, the funnel, the agitator, and your timer. You'll feel like you have a lot in your hands the first few times so putting these within accessible distance guarantees a more fluid process. The Color Developer: To make 1 L of developer I followed the instructions printed on the bottle. You will need warm water (49°C), a large measuring cylinder (1 L), a small measuring cylinder (100 ml) and a syringe (provided with the kit). The volumes for making up 1 L of developer are:The fix is a 50% concentrate, so 1/2 litre makes 1 litre. you bathe the bleached film in this for 1min 30seconds.

Film processing has long been the heart of DS Colour Labs, and although time and technology have moved forward… film is still an extremely popular option for many photographers. Whether you are just getting started in film or you have any specific C41 requests – you can be sure that our friendly team will always be on hand to assist you. Above is a photo of my film to be developed. The top bag of film contains exposed ECN-2 Kodak Vision3 motion picture film. This includes Vision3 50D, 200T and 500T films. I bulk load these 35mm films then cross process in the Tetenol C41 chemicals. Please note stabiliser is no longer included as modern emulsions rarely require this step. Specification: Form: If you’ve ever bought a color film developing kit, one of the first things you’ll notice is that the rated capacity may be lower than you’d like. For example, the rated capacity of the popular Cinestill CS41 Quart (1L) kit is only 8 rolls. Film Foto Store takes great care when putting product information, descriptions and images online but will not be held responsible for any mistakes or omissions to any information given. Prices

To do that, simply multiply the standard developing time of 3.5 minutes by 1.12, giving you a developing time of 3.92 minutes, or 3 minutes and 55 seconds. (Get the seconds by multiplying 60x.92). While it’s hard to truly quantify the difference between the rolls as you keep using the blix kit, there are some subtle differences. To test this, I shot an entire roll of Kodak Portra 800 in 35mm with the same image, and then developed sections of the film with the first round and the 9th round of using this developing solution. At the start of every step of the developing proces I wrote: close up the tank with the lit and invert during 15 seconds. This is my way of saying keep flipping the tank up and down during the first 15 seconds. After that I use the agitator every 30seconds until the end of that step. Next step, again start by flipping the entire tank 15sec, after that the agitator every 30 sec. I think flipping the tank at the beginning of each step is important, just using the agitator might result in uneven processing. Then there is a 100ml bottle of stabiliser and you use a few drops of this to make enough for three “use once” baths. There is plenty of this and total bath time for stab is 3mins.

For the first four rolls, the development time is 8 minutes. This increases to 9 minutes for rolls 5-8, 10 minutes for rolls 9-12 and, finally, 11 minutes for rolls 13-16. Fixer: To make 700 ml of fixer I followed the instructions printed on the bottle. You will need warm water (32-40°C), a large measuring cylinder (1L), a smaller measuring cylinder (the same 100 ml cylinder from before works fine). The volumes for making up 700 ml of fixer are: Fixer concentrate (140 ml) + Water (560 ml). Mix well and store in a clearly labeled bottle. This tip isn’t talked about much, and it’s not in the instruction manual for blix kits, but it’s one of the most vital for a C41 Developing kit’s longevity. Whether or not bleaching after fixing fully removes the silver content is debatable, but it will increase the image saturation and bring the contrast closer to normal. The bleaching step removes the silver content from the film, leaving behind just the color dyes in the film. So skipping the step essentially means you will keep the B&W image as well as the color image.Film changing bag – not required if you have light tight cupboard/ room you can use to load film in. You can also load tanks the night before once it gets dark. That is how I used to do it. Keeping film negatives free of dust