Raynox DCR-250 Macro Attachment

Product Information

As for flowers & leaves, very interesting. I suppose you can study the whole world under a macro lens if you wish. As for subject matter, I think rain has stopped play for this year. Vignetting. I'm not that worried about the vignetting - the whole point for this conversion lens for me is magnification and focal distance. On smaller kit lens, you will notice slight vignetting in the corners - even less noticeable on a DX body, understandably. On the larger Nikkor 80-200mm the vignetting can be quite extreme, especially at the shorter zoom distances (caused by the step-down ring or Snap-On Universal Adapter needed for mounting.) Raynox lenses come sold in a box with an adapter, and the Raynox adapter clips onto the front of your main lens. Just screw the Raynox into the adapter and clip the squeezy bits to the very front of the lens: it grips onto the thread that will usually hold a filter. It all looks a little odd but the adapter is the way it is so it will fit onto many lens diameters. If you run out of ISO, go into manual and set a fast shutter speed and use RAW to bring out more light in postprocessing. Now that I’ve been using it for just over two weeks, I feel I can deliver a pretty fair verdict about this alternative macro solution. Curious to know more? Then let’s keep reading! Design and Build Quality

I don't have a dSLR or a prime macro lens, so I'm open to correction, but I think the answer is ...)My SX10is has a crop ratio of 5.6, and its focal length ranges from 5mm to 100mm, which means that: With a 70-200mm lens @200mm and Raynox DCR-250 (focal length of DSR-250 is 125 mm, focal length of DSR-150 is 208 mm) Macro is indeed frustrating, but highly rewarding. It can take a little while for things to start dropping into place - it certainly did for me. I do suggest that as you experiment you keep an open mind and try various approaches. As one example, I know that most people don't use autofocus for macros, but there are some people who do, and for whom indeed macros simply don't work with manual focus. Macro photography is generally associated with photography of flowers and insects, even so this type of photography is not limited to only these types of photographs. This type of macro lens is used for taking close-up photography of jewelry, diamonds, very well used in the field of numismatics as well as to photograph food products and is even used in science.

So, I imagine the answer is that yes, you could use the 250 on a prime macro lens, but it may be a bit inflexible in what it lets you do. The Raynox DCR-250 Macro Lens for Fujifilm X100 is a macro lens which screws onto the front of the lens and performs as a magnifier of the subject you intend to photograph. The lens is built out of high indexoptical glass and creates a really sharp image. The lens provides a magnification power of 2.5x and includes a front filter thread which measures in at 49mm, enabling you to attach innovative filters for intriguing effects.Thanks. To be honest I don't know which close-up lens I used. I change them frequently and don't keep a note of which was used for what. I get too involved in taking pictures to want to break the spell by doing bureaucracy (I had quite enough of that at work!)

Adjust the lens focus to achieve the correct size of subject in frame (you may need to guesstimate this before hand if going for active insects like flies etc). The Raynox 250 consists of two main parts: a clip-on mount that will fit any thread size between 52mm and 67mm, and a lens made of 3 high index optical glass elements in 2 groups. The lens comes with a plastic lens cap and rear cap for protection. In practice, it can be used with any focal length but vignetting becomes an issue below 75mm (35mm equivalent). The Raynox DCR-250 macro converter lens I imagine that if you put a close-up lens like the 250 on a 100mm prime (or any other non-wide-angle prime) it will work. However, once you have got the image in focus you won't be able to alter the magnification/framing of the picture by using zoom because it is a prime lens. And you won't be able to alter the magnification/framing of the picture (much) by altering the working distance because you will only be able to get sharp focus from a quite narrow range of working distance. As it happens I now use a heavy, complicated tripod with an arm that goes out sideways, up, down etc at any angle, the arm coming off a central column that can go up as normal, or down towards the ground. And I use a focus rail too (in a rather crude fashion). Anytime taking close-up photographs and you’re hoping to get close up to a flower the minimum focusing distance is the nearest you will get to the subject and continue to obtain suitable focus. Most probably you are going to experience focus problems because of the minimum focusing distance for that particular lens. The Raynox Macro Lens enables you to focus closer and get inside of a few centemetres of the subject.So on my camera the 45-200 is almost exactly the same as your 55-250 on your camera, and so the 45-200 gives almost exactly the same minimum and maximum magnification with the 150, 250 and 500D as for your 55-250 on your camera. So, using the 150 and 250 on the SX10 I get about the same magnification as you get with them at the wide angle end of your 55-250, and at the telephoto end I get slightly more magnification than you get with them on your 55-250 at full telephoto of 250mm. The Raynox DCR-250 Macro Lens is a macro lens which screws onto the front of the lens and performs as a magnifier of the subject you intend to photograph. The lens is built out of high indexoptical glass and creates a really sharp image. The lens provides a magnification power of 2.5x and includes a front filter thread which measures in at 49mm, enabling you to attach innovative filters for intriguing effects.