Rochas Moustache EDP Spray, 75 ml

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What a 'grower' the EDP is! It's so impressive when a fragrance keeps enchanting you more and more as you get to know it through multiple wears. There is an amazing bright effervescence upon spraying that feels 'carbonated' yet doesn't smell like any particular beverage, not cola, root beer, Dr. Pepper...that I can recognize specifically but it is utterly addicting. I have reached for Moustache EDP more than any other fragrance over these colder months even though I already have a trio of Ferragamo Uomo Signature,

In its density and indulgence, this Rochas reminds me of the above mentioned Guerlain classics and Tom Ford's "Noir". A little fruity by a really pleasant round, harmonious, almost creamy, unbitter mandarin, also floral with clear rose, which is beautifully waxy and also powdery framed by benzoin. After the Second World War, Europe was still in the process of reconstruction. Nevertheless, fragrances had always been created and sold during and after the war. Cultiveness, style and the joy of perfume survive every brutalization. As I already wrote in my statement, the heart note - to my mind - is very similar to the heart note of Givenchy's "Gentlemen Only" from 2013, both of which are made mostly of cedar, but have completely different accompanying fabrics around them. While Givenchy's vetiver gives the fragrance a rather pungent wood note, the rose used in "Moustache" makes it rounder and softer. It's as if you were smelling the same piece of wood, but with "Moustache" you smell it from a greater distance, which makes the impression less oppressive but more coherent. The scent of cedar is still part of the base note for a while, but the heart note leaves the skin after about 1.5 - 2 hours. The fragrance must certainly be placed in the context of 1949, when Thérèsa and Edmond Roudnitska created the original fragrance. As far as I know in Grasse.Overall, despite its popular reputation as a lemony fragrance, Moustache edt is anything but. In fact, it’s predominantly a soft and gentlemanly lavender for most of its life, if not for the first half hour where nearly all of the magic happens. From the massive blast of honeyed lemon, to the strange funk, soft violet and beautiful lavender drydown, it’s quite a journey to take in such a short period of time; yet frankly an absolute joy to experience. Kind of like life. Yes, I have (frighteningly) commented and also tested very little in the last year, because many newcomers simply don't give me anything except the feeling of repeatedly smelling something comparable, similar or even identical

Moustache Original 1949 (the new one up there) is - and I'll send this ahead - from my point of view well done. Like its predecessor, the fragrance is consistently bergamot citrus, powdery (musk), has further discreet floral undertones and also a herbaceous component (in the old one, basil was explicitly mentioned as a herbaceous clay, which was also well imaginable, and lavender, in the new one in 1949 it is only lavender, but this can be due to a shortened presentation of the ingredients). In the old Moustache the sweet animal note was conspicuous, which I always put on the honey (missing in this version) and the musk. This was avoided with the contemporary moustache, which was certainly a wise decision, because a rogue who had at that time obvious associations with the yellow liquid. Moustache was a marking male at that time, nowadays he is masculine, but he wears a hipster mustache. Is that bad? No, it isn't, because I now believe that many vintage fragrances, as much as I loved them then (and now), would seem out of place among contemporaries. That's what a true lover of old scents says. This 2018 recreation of Moustache Original 1949 is indeed a musty lemon citrus opening that by description is accurate but doesn't really explain the experience. It was the third wear that I felt the magic, the lemon citrus opening was surprisingly alluring and I kept adding sprays over a few hours to fully experience it from the top again, and again. It settles into a comfy patchouli, moss, and musk base which is nice as well. As the top musty brightness settles down this could work in the office but I don't plan on doing so. It's a great around the house/yard classic citrus for me and I plan to reach for it plenty over the spring and summer particularly. The price performance I find even more outstanding, usually you have to reformulate the BUNKERN, because Rochas as with the "Rochas Man" but like once. Thanks to the rather moderate sweetness of this fragrance and the generally rather reserved projection (the topic "spraying over" is not considered here), "Moustache" can be used wonderfully in leisure time, as well as in the office or similar locations. It can also be used in different seasons (which I don't believe in anyway - you will never complain about a good scent because of the weather). If at all applies: the warmer, the less sprays should be used because of the sweetness.

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If there's one thing you can't blame "Moustache" for, it's probably its excellent pricing policy or the grandiose relationship between high-quality fragrance, bottle size and price. It is reformulated and I do not know the original from 1949 and I cannot imagine that there is still a usable, not tilted original filling, so that the comparison would be possible only with successors. Style or nothing! What matters is cutting a fine figure, the famous beautiful drape of the clothes. Rochas invented the basque, designed the mermaid evening gown, liberated women’s bodies with his ¾ coats and square shoulders, and created the Bird dress inspired by the artists of his day. Timeless classics that the couturier reinvented for every season. As far as the silage is concerned, the fragrance plays this strength out wonderfully, especially in the heart note and in the transition to the base. The pleasant woody note, combined with a slow onset of sweetness, ensures that one leaves a sufficient and perceptible, but never oppressive scent trail. Only the pepper in the top note might cause a short twitching of the nose for some, but for all the others it should be long gone because of its short presence. In the base note, and thus at the end of its life, "Moustache" becomes a very tight "skin-scent", so it is hardly noticeable except for the person wearing it and very close other people. Having been a devout fan of the much hyped edp (which is more of a rosey benzoin tea scent), I felt like I had to get this one to complete the set, if not to experience another one of Roudnitska’s creations.