Radiator Expansion Water Tank Cap Compatible for Fiesta Focus C-Max Mondeo

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The mechanic I used took another look at it today and has returned it to me stating that it is in fact a problem with the head, stating he ran some tests and found gas to be escaping and entering the coolant system. He has now offered a short term solution by saying he can apply some sort of leak repair stuff which requires the coolant system to be flushed then the additive put in with new coolant. Does anybody have any experience with this and if so, how long is it likely to withhold? My car is due to have it's MOT in February, how likely is it to pass this? Correct antifreeze mixture? off the shelf antifreeze is pre mixed isnt it? https://www.eurocarparts.com/p/triple-qx-red-ready-mixed-antifreeze-coolant-5ltr-523770511

I suppose I could mist water into the air intake to slightly reduce the risk but there's a bit too much happening as it is.

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Roll up or remove loose clothing, and keep your arms away from the cooling fan(s). Fans can turn on automatically, even when the engine is off. Agree with the screw into it, if you used a really sharp self tapper, you might get away without drilling a pilot hole and dropping bits of metal into the tank.

The most obvious valid reason for replacing a water pump would be an overheating incident due to actual or suspected water pump failure . Only reasonably practical desperate improvisation I can think of would be removing the thermostat. This will potentially increase circulation in the cooling circuit, allowing it to remove more heat. Open the hood and locate the engine coolant reservoir. It is often a translucent white color, and has hose(s) connecting it to the radiator. I did, however, realise that there are sometimes no bleed points, because I think that's all I've ever had on any of my cars. Can't remember it being a problem before. If it were mine I would keep a close eye on the coolant. Your engine will only overheat if you loose a significant amount

Or take a brave pill, remove the top half of the top, then start the car and let expansion increase the pressure inside the tank. It could not be worse than removing an unwanted shed / starting fires with petrol / any other PH method of bodily harm!

I've done this a few times now on the Skywing. I don't much like doing it, but I think its less risky than your suggested laissez faire air alternative.

So much confusion over a simple system! I take it none of you are plumbers or heating engineers? It works exactly the same way as your hot water tank or central heating radiators at home. Right at the beginning of this thread I suspected CHG failure. I think paul 1963 (post above) is spot on. The symptoms described are a classic example of a tiny defect appearing. Its not really a compression tester as the term is usually used. Its testing for radiator pressurisation, with a FSD of 5 psi, so it'd be more sensitive to damage than a compression test, but perhaps still not sensitive enough.

That's a very broken car though. Might not be sufficiently sensitive for a marginal integrity loss. If you are not loosing coolant I too doubt if you have a head gasket leak. Yes the garage can test for gases in the coolant but if you have a leak then if the gas comes out into the coolant then coolant would pass the same way when stationary. and be lost. The puzzling aspect is the leak stopper suggestion. AFAIK there's no leak stopper to seal from within the combustion chamber (There are goos that are supposed to restore some compression but I THINK they are supposed to seal the rings). The leak has definitely been repaired and despite the coolant bubbling after every trip to/from work, it doesn't look to have decreased in volume in the reservoir. The running temp (on the dashboard at least) seems to be normal, the only thing that's changed is that the fan boots in a lot sooner than it ever had done beforehand

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When your engine is running, it makes power—but it also makes heat. And that’s where engine coolant comes in. Note that I’m assuming a “classic” mechanical thermostat here. If its something more modern, perhaps controlled via satellite downlink from a CIA Cray Supercomputer at Langley, this may not be possible.) Nifty physical test for HG failure. I dunno if that would work with a lower tech pressure gauge (or even an improvised manometer) but it seems a possibility. Difficult bit would be getting a good seal. Going by the radiator cap pressure in the cooling system is likely to be lower than oil pressure, so you might not get much coolant going the other way, plus coolant in the oil will probably be less visible, initially at least. I wouldn't do that, and I probably wouldn't buy the kit they use, but it should be possible to adapt another form of pump.