Fixman 566783 Chain Plate Electro Galvanised Staple 50 mm x 50 mm

Product Information

The ideal thing would be to repair the knee in such a fashion that it was structurally sound though. Regardless, I think that removal of the old chainplate be done. Perhaps the knee is just wet and not rotten (fingers crossed). If so, let it dry and maybe treat that area with epoxy. At the same time inspecting the plate, cleaning and polishing it once over. Then replacing the fasteners and re-sealing the cover-plate is likely a good idea. Standard attachments are parts fitted to a base chain to adapt it for a particular purpose as a conveying medium. Attachments may form an integral part of the link plate or may be built into the chain as a replacement of the normal link. Other attachments (according to type) are fixed to the chain plates by projection or fillet welding, to either one or both sides of the chain. It could also be that the metal is covered by grease, sealant, dirt or some other substance that can cause oxygen to not be able to get to the metal. Chain wear will lead to poor shifting and lost efficiency. Additionally, a severely worn chain is weaker, and there’s nothing fun about a snapped chain. Exactly how much wear your chain has will dictate your available options. On terribly worn drivetrains, the teeth of the cogs will begin to look hooked from the chain wearing high on them.

Chain wear is commonly referred to as ‘chain stretch’, because the chain’s pitch grows in length as it wears. This is the most important type of chain wear, and the growth comes from the bushings wearing with the chain pins. Over time, the inner diameter of these bushings increases and the pins groove out. If you’re at this point, replacing just the chain isn’t really an option. Instead, you will have to replace the chain, cassette and likely your chainrings. I may just put the boat in the water and let her settle in for a while then go around the hull with a raft and refasten and re-bung as needed. Because if the boat has been dry for a while it will certainly change shape a good bit once swelled. I am sure other things will happen like maybe some of the seems may need to be re-caulked. You just won’t know until she is wet again and settled in. For this reason alone I think it is always prudent to wait until the boat is wet to caulk, bung, refasten, even paint the hull above the water line. A good raft can be a useful investment. some others and are able to fabricate a variety of Custom ones, please forward a photo or sketch withThe final concern is with hull integrity for mounting and external chainplate to the transom. Maybe glass reinforcements need to be made to ‘beef-up’ the affected area! Removing the old silicone is a messy work. Neither the sharp blades of a carpet knife nor scratching, chiseling or sanding off worked satisfactory. Again: Never, no – never! – dare to use silicone on your sailing yacht. It´s simply a mess! After minutes of scrubbing I desperately began to use sanding paper to get the whole stuff at least visually clean. Maybe later I will apply electric-mechanical help by Mr. Dremel to finish work here … Oh my … In the late 1990s, 316-grade stainless became the prevailing material for chain plates. It had a higher Chromium content and was less prone to rusting than 304. Due to it’s lower carbon content, it is not as strong per size and harder to fashion than it’s predecessor 304. Add that along with a higher price tag, we have seen many a boat builder use a less than adequate size for the long-term requirements of rigging. It was a common misconception that rigging failed due to the fact that the swages were work hardened when they squeezed. In the end, all stainless will fail due to age, by way of corrosion, stress and oxygen deprivation. Today, 316 and 316 L for low carbon is still considered the go-to materials for chainplates. In our opinion, they have a more than adequate lifespan for the task intended. Almost everything on your boat needs repair or replacement at one time or another and chain plates are no different. So, is there anything better? Arranging each nut and bold as well as the chain plate and it´s very own counterpart on a big sheet of paper stating to which side of the ship and which shroud each of the part belongs I will later insure that the parts will return to their respective place just where I took them off. Over time the chain plates have been adapted to the very shape of the surface of the beams. And how does the saying go? Never replant an old tree …

As I could see after removing of the wooden cover and the faux leather at least two of the shrouds did get leaky over time allowing small amounts of water penetrate the cabin. On starboard side a major part of the wooden cover is therefore destroyed and will have to be rebuild. Even if there´s just a drop every hour coming down the chain plate – after 40 years that´s a huge amount of wet stuff. Don´t forget: A King´s Cruiser – just as many sailing yachts even today – has a sandwich construction. Unless the middle layer isn´t made of foam but of Balsa wood instead there´s a danger of the wood to simply rot. The Chain Plates on the Port Side It’s often stated that a chain is worn once it reaches one per cent growth from the original 0.5in (12.7mm) pitch. Trying hard to remove the old silicone on one instance I took out a huge piece of an even older provisional filling of the gone Balsa core. So one of the pre-owners at least must have been working on the same problems as I did. But instead of doing it right he opted for simply filling up the hole between the two GRP-layers of the roof with soft silicone. On port side I found the core of the roof gone in a radius of up to 10 centimeters, starboard side is a bit less severe but again I too out a lot of wet shreds of rotten Balsa wood. Rotten Balsa Wood of the Sandwich Construction So, therefore, anything past 12 1/16in (0.5 per cent) would be the time to replace a chain. Anything past 12 1/8in (one per cent) has been worn to death and so a new cassette is likely needed. I began to unscrew the chain plates and take off screws, nuts and the plates themselves. I was surprised that some of the bolts have been screwed very tightly so that I had to put about a lot of power to get them loose, some of them appeared to have been screwed not as tight. Eventually I had them disassembled and took of the counterparts of the chain plates and had a look: Though made of stainless steel I could spot a lot of rust but I´m pretty confident that this is just superficial and wouldn´t be a problem to remove. Same with the rest.L Attachments are integral with the chain outer plates. Normally they have one or two holes (L2 preferred), but for use on scraper applications they can be supplied without holes and with various box widths (LO Type). Spigot pins may be assembled either through hollow bearing pins or link plates and are secured by a nut and spring washer. On port side it´s the chain plate of the lower shroud on starboard side it´s the shroud coming directly over the spreader down which is leaking. Not very much, I have to state, and I am very relieved not to find the boat completely worn out because having to replace the whole system would be a catastrophe. But I want my boat as dry as I can get it so first thing was to sand off the surface underneath the chain plates. Out onto the GRP directly a dark brown layer of rotten stuff has been formed. I took it all off. Sanding off most of the Rot

attached to boat with (4) 5/8" bolts on 4 1/8" centers. Highly polished Type 316 Flat SS Chainplate is

If your chain is slightly past the wear limit, you may be able to get away with replacing just the chain. Simply fit a new chain and if you experience any skipping on the cassette or chainrings, you know the old chain has worn the cassette and chainring and these now need to be replaced. All bolts holding chainplates require frequent inspections. Fashioned from 304 stainless alloy (also known as 18/8), the threads on these fasteners can collect saltwater and they can corrode quite easily. When sailmaker Dave Beatson began to remove some chainplate bolts on his Creekmore 34, half of the bolt heads fell off when he turned the wrench. So when we bought a 20-year-old Mason 44, I decided to pull out the chainplates to see what, if anything, was going on. Chainplate is otherwise suitable for your application, the angle can frequently be modified to suit.