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This two stage reducer is capable of speeding up my f/10 C11 to about f/3. For this additional spacers are needed. When used with a Meade natively f/6.3 OTA, then I keep the reduction factor of the assembly at a minimum to get and overall f/3. If I wanted to, I could go down to around f/2.5 without noticeable deterioration of the image on the small 1/3" or 1/2" sensors. Guiding-Camera Adaptation – in the example with a the sensor placed ca. 6mm above the Off-Axis-Guider: is 59mm long, the camera 55mm – the total length was too short to get into focus at this special telescope in all configurations. Therefore a Baader T-2 / 40 mm Extension Tube (T-2 part #25B) (#1508153 , € 27,-)
Note: Once cameras and eyepiece are set up, you can use a stop ring, so that you can always bring them into the same positions by putting them into the eyepiece clamp until the stop ring does its job. Such a stop ring is included with the QHY 5-III-462C CMOS Camera (#1931026 , € 295,- € € 191.75) For the adaptation to the telescope, you can use Baader SC / HD Ultra Short T-Adaptor, 9mm optical length # 2958500B, yes. Once the Zygo test report has been completed, the optical alignment is thoroughly tested and tuned to ensure they are spot on before they leave us. Der Flipp Mirror ist ab Werk bereits sehr gut justiert, sodass im Normalfall keine Nachjustierung nötig ist. Hier liegen zwischen dem Baader Flip Mirror und anderen Produkten (auch einfachen Zenitspiegel) Welten und ich habe schon einige gekauft und wieder verkauft!With 2 strips of double-sided adhesive tape of 2-3mm wide, this cover plate can be fixed without damaging the original rear mirror. The field stop of the eyepiece and the camera sensor should each be in the same distance from the Flip Mirror. Adjusting left/right alignment took more working out – it’s not described in the Orion manual at all, but there were some references to the Orion mirror on the web that suggested it was possible. On my model if I centered a star on the camera, it was left of center by a bit in the eyepiece, so I was determined to work out how to do this.
Quantum mechanics is a fundamental theory in physics that describes the behavior of nature at the scale of atoms and subatomic particles.[2]: 1.1 It is the foundation of all quantum physics including quantum chemistry, quantum field theory, quantum technology, and quantum information science. T-2 Fine-Adjustment rings (0,3 / 0,5 / 1 mm) - Aluminium ( #2457910, € 14,63) (also available separately) for eyepieces with the field stop inside of the nose piece It’s the center of the three hex bolts on the base with the larger head and recessed into the base. The other end of this bolt protrudes into the case and the mirror rests on it in the down position – thus by adjusting this bolt you can easily adjust the up/down alignment of the camera and eyepiece. then the camera fits perfectly, but only if we do not use the filter, otherwise the camera would be too far away from the FlipMirror. The field stop of the eyepiece should be in the same distance from the FlipMirror as the camera sensor. That's ca. 24mm, if you attach the Wide-T-ring directly to the FlipMirror. Then you can usewith the FlipMirror, the working distance is determined by the minimum flange distances of both the main (recording) camera and the guiding camera – it can't be inserted into the OAG "until infinity". Thank you for digging up the old thread about the flip mirror. Since then I have switched to using a Lodestar, that has a larger sensor than what the LN300 had. Correspondingly, I also modified my setup and reduction factor. I still have the same flip mirror with the Meade 0.63x reducer but on the camera I now have only a 0.7x reducer. This change was needed due to the larger 9mm diameter sensor of the Lodestar. (As opposed to the 6mm diameter sensor of the LN300.) The original more aggressive setup would strongly vignette the larger sensor and also cause ugly distortions in the outer regions of the field. Straight-through (S52, M48 and T-2 on both sides) for full-frame camera, spectrograph, or other instruments However I've managed to capture a video of M42, which was good, however I tried to get M81 and M82, And by god it was a pain!!! trying to get my target in focus through my eyepiece, and then take my eyepiece out and put my stella cam in, and refocus again, to get the image sorted.
Yes, you can, providing you find a readily visible object first, aim at it and make sure your EP is parfocal with the camera's sensor. It may require 1- moving the EP in or out of its tube, 2-adding or removing the extension tube(s) to the camera port before mounting the camera to the flip mirror, or 3-choosing a different EP. Do a test shot with any of these to determine the EP and camera are parfocal, unless your larger monitor is clear enough to confirm focus. Then you can find that dim object. BTW, I just got my first view on M74 from the side of my house on a really busy main street in the red zone of long beach california. The image doesn't look impressive,actually it's terrible =), but I found it thanks to the platesolving.
How to Flip a Video?
In summary, while my flip mirror focal reducer works well with SCT's, I wouldn't recommend to cannibalize a nice refractor to work with it. A lot needed to be cut from the tube and the resulting optics would probably have lots of aberrations.
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