Revell 30ml Decal Soft

Product Information

The best way I’ve found to solve this is to give the surface a coat of gloss varnish before I apply the miniature. I have a pot of Games Workshop ‘Ard Coat which I only rever use for this purpose: by brushing on a generous amount of varnish to the surface, you will get a nice smooth surface upon which you can apply the decal: all the troughs and peaks will be smoothed out and you won’t have air gaps underneath. This type of decal is a little uncommon and should not be confused with water-slide decals or vinyl self-adhesive decals. Wet self-adhesive decals have adhesive on the rear of the decal, which when wet with water, allows the decal to be moved into the correct position before carefully wiping away any access water. This causes the decal adhesive to bond to the model permanently. A small amount of washing up liquid added to the water will help the decal to slide better until you are happy that you have it in the correct position. Once you have applied all your decals, and if you have done it correctly, they should now have the appearance of being painted on. From here, you can either leave the model with a gloss finish, or apply some weathering techniques.

Decal Solutions - Humbrol DecalFix Reviewing And Testing Decal Solutions - Humbrol DecalFix

A recent post on another forum advocated using Tamiya X-20 as a solvent for decals. I have yet to try it, but I will. I have a Hasegawa project with decals that just won't settle down with Microsol. First, of course, I'll try it on a "crash test dummy" with same clear coat and scrap decals. Essentially the dreaded silvering, where the decal carrier film becomes visible, is caused by microscopic air bubbles under the decal. There is a much higher likelihood of this occurring on a rough, matt, surface than on a smoother gloss one. Edit @ October 2016: be very careful when soaking up the excess softener as any agitation can cause the decal to warp or break!

Water-slide Decals

For any tight curves or areas that the decal needs to conform to that is not flat, you can apply a little heat using a hairdryer set to low (so as not to distort or melt the decal or model part). Once the decal is in place, carefully warm the area with the hairdryer to make the decal soft so that you can push out any creases or bubbles that may have appeared. Decals (or transfers, or whatever you want to call them) can, when done properly, bring a lot to a miniature. But for whatever reason, following the instructions that come with them is guaranteed to result in a really crap result that looks awful. To seal the decal completely, you can now apply a thin layer of varnish or Klear and allow it to dry. SKY RC e680 AC/DC 80W Charger The SkyRC e680 Universal Charger is easy to use and at the same time offers a variety of features. All popular battery types such... Before you apply decals, you’ll need to have your workspace cleared and all the necessary tools on hand. Here is a list of the tools you’ll need:

Revell Decal Soft, 30 ml - 3DJake UK

If you like to weather your decals, now’s the time. Google has plenty of advice on doing this if you’ve not done decal weathering before. As always, model making is as much about follow instructions as it is about following your own creativity. Decals are a great way to enhance your model even further, so add them where you see fit and make your model stand out! If you are more of a traditionalist, and an array of decals is provided with your model kit, chances are you’ll use them. And for good reason. Decals provide a nice touch of colour, detail, and authenticity to your model, which is especially important for models such as classic planes, or famed Formula 1 racing cars. The Revell Decal Soft 30ml in the modelling accessories range provides a softening solutions to aid in applying decals over uneven surfaces. Decals consist of an image printed onto a thin film. The film is brittle and plastic, in the technical sense that it remembers its shape (a flat sheet) and will try to return to it if possible. That means that unless you’re applying the decal to a perfectly flat surface like a mirror, you’re going to end up with gaps underneath the decal, which will result in bubbles that will ruin the finish. Air gaps beneath the decal will result in an uneven finishHi Guest, Help support our forums, in return you can post and take part in the forum, and have NO adverts, Like Don S said, decal setting solution and decal softening solution are two different things. I use setting solution (Microsol product with a blue label) under the decal to prevent silvering, and softening solution (the Microsol product with the red label) on the top to soften the decal so it will conform to the surface. Some decals will not soften using the Microsol?, even after applying heat from a hair dryer. My last resort in that case is using denatured alcohol on the decal with the hair dryer. DO NOT get the alcohol on a painted surface or it will eat it up. First, although Microsol is not the strongest solution available it can be too much for some decals. I always test on an unwanted decal from any decal sheet to make sure it won't destroy the ones I intend to use on the model. If there is a problem you can always dilute the solution with water. I'd recommend this no matter which of the decal solutions you are using. This is a lesson I learnt the hard way! We seem to be conflating decal solvent and decal setting solutions in this thread. They are not the same thing.

Decal Soft 30ml Revell 39693 - super-hobby.dk Decal Soft 30ml Revell 39693 - super-hobby.dk

The latest discussion I could find on this was three years old so I decided rather than replying to it I would start a new topic. Now I don't know if finger nail polish remover will work on all decals and it may be too hot for some decals straight out of the bottle, but I'm going to try it on my next decal for the project I'm working on and we'll see what happens IRL. So I found some old decals and a painted piece of plastic with both bumps and grooves, put a layer of Pledge on it, let it dry, and then affixed two old decals to the plastic. One I treated with pure white vinegar and the other I treated with my wifes finger nail polish remover (composed mainly of Acetone).Once the decal is in position and you’ve removed the excess water, apply the softener with a brush and leave it for a couple of minutes, before soaking up the excess. Once you are happy with the position of the decal, dab another paper towel on the decal to soak up any left over water.