Games Workshop Citadel Pot de Peinture - Contrast Basilicanum Grey (18ml)

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Paint a few detail bits on the underside Leadbelcher, wash Nuln, good enough for stuff people will never see. Prime in either Games Workshop Contrast Undercoat Wraith Bone Spray or Army Painter Color Primer White The Army Painter recommend their Matt White Colour Primer, but for better comparison with Contrast I used Greyseer Spray Primer for both models, which is a light grey primer with a satin finish. The smooth satin finish allows the medium of Speedpaints and Contrast paints to spread more evenly. Nevertheless, the many flat areas of the Intercessors’ power armour will present quite a challenge for either paint. Here you can see some examples of how I applied this colour scheme to other models in the army, varying up the markings and amount of teal and gold depending on the model.

Basecoat the lights white and apply contrast: Gryph-Charger Grey for the whites, Gryph-Hound Orange for the turn signals and Baal Red for the rear lights. Adeptus Mechanicus: The Adeptus Mechanicus are a faction of cyborgs and tech-priests that rely heavily on machines and vehicles in their army. Basilicanum Grey is a perfect color to use on their tanks, walkers, and other mechanical units. After this step I glazed over the skin on some of the models with different coloured washes to tint them and add some variation. Everything from blue, green, brown, purple, blue and yellow were used. You could have waited to do the agrax wash on the cloth until after the metals and such are done to save a bit of time here.Wash the sign (both the lettering and the red) with diluted (1:1 parts water to paint) Basilicanum Grey. With the release of the new Citadel contrast paints I thought it would be a great opportunity to re visit painting non metallic metals (nmm). The skellie patrol I did all of the armor using Vallejo 72.060 Game Colour – Tinny Tin (tin tin tintinity ti boo), the wood using Contrast: Wyldwood and the cloth using Contrast Flesh Tearers Red. Highlight armor and weapons with a VERY light drybrush of Vallejo Metal Color Exhaust Manifold (Focus near the top/front of these elements, the steel is not supposed to be shiny! Highlight Flesh with Citadel Karak Stone, the red areas with VGC Sun Yellow and the off-white areas with white.

Get out basecoat touched up and cleaned up if needed. We’ve gone for the Caspian Blue for a very specific reason. Kilts are made by weaving different coloured cloth together, and when the two colours combine, the effect they produce is like a third combined colour. In this case, our base colours are a rich dark blue and a green, so our midtone colour is a blue-green, and that’s what we start withIn a post asking for photos of Foreign Legion forces in the Bolt Action Facebook group, some great photos were posted by Winter Guite and are made by combining “Warlord US Army with heads from Mad Robot. These represent the FFL that were equipped by the US under the 1943 ANFA plan.” It looks like he followed a very similar process to my US Army guide above. French Foreign Legion by Winter Guite Gavinthekaiser on reddit’s r/boltaction forum posted his Italian Gavinthekaiser painted with Citadel Contrast Paints in what might be one of the simplest, but effective paint schemes out there so far. Basecoat the purity seal with Wraithbone, then add a wash of Agrax Earthshade and only do a single highlight of Wraithbone, or even skip the highlight alltogether.

The Army Painter recommend their Matt White Colour Primer, but for better comparison with Contrast, I used Grey Seer Spray from Games Workshop for both models, which is a light grey primer with a satin finish. The smooth satin finish allows the medium of Speedpaints and Contrast paints to spread more evenly. Nevertheless, the many flat areas of the Intercessors’ power armour will present quite a challenge for either paint. Paint the red areas with Citadel Contrast Flesh Tearers Red. Drybrush the cloth with VGC Blue Grey. That should get you through these ligne Voltiguers just fine, and those techniques will apply to anybody else in the regiment. And yes, I know I just painted Ultramarines again. I wanted to try out the new contrast colours and apply them to this technique to see what results I could achieve. One major upside to doing this is that the tiles already have an adhesive side. It’s not strong enough to hold a building so you’ll want to superglue those down, but it is strong enough to hold a layer of basing grit in place until you seal it. So start by laying that down, gluing down any details like plasticard panels or debris, then throw basing grit/sand on it and tap it off until you’ve got a solid layer. At this point I cover the whole thing with Woodland Scenics spray adhesive, AKA watered down PVA glue in a spray bottle. Coating the whole thing with this seals the model and keeps everything in place so I’m not constantly losing grit over time.

Using a piece of foam I sponged on some Stormhost Silver . I only did this on areas that would make sense for wear and tear, such as hard edges. This gives a nice worn look in a random pattern. Use this sparingly. To finish them off, I added dots of Grey Seer to the corners of everything – if there’s a corner, put a dot on it. I dotted some of the longer, rounded edges as well if it made sense for light to be reflecting from there. I went lighter on the tubes and wires to make them feel a little bit softer.