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Posted 20 hours ago

BESNIN 17 Degree Bike Stem, 31.8mm 60mm 70mm 90mm 110mm 130mm MTB Stem Mountain Bike Handlebar Stem for Bicycle, Road Bike, MTB, BMX, Cycling (Aluminum Alloy)

£9.995£19.99Clearance
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About this deal

The rise (angle of stem from fork to bar) has quite a large effect. Rise is quoted in + or – degrees as this determines the angle the stem rises or falls from the fork steerer. The higher the degrees (+) the more upright your position will be. Or if inverting the stem, the lower you will be.

Alloy stems are relatively cheap and light weight so they are the most common model available. Carbon stems are lighter and can be incredibly stiff but they’re also way more expensive so usually favoured by racers or weight weenies. Most bar clamps are 4-bolt pattern which as well as being stiffer also helps spread out the pressure of the clamp across a greater area on the bar, which is something that carbon bar users will appreciate. Material Stems are labeled in two different ways: either (1) the actual angle, or (2) in terms of their difference from 90 degrees. I guess, the numbers are based on mounting the stem on a perpendicular tube, but they have nothing to do with head tube angle on your bike. Stems between 100-120mm of length are known as long stems and anything below 90mm is considered as short stems. Generally on a road bike stems tend not to be shorter than 90mm and longer than 130mm.

Nukeproof Neutron Direct Mount Mountain Bike Stem

Don’t forget that you can also probably raise and lower your stem by moving the spacers around on the fork steerer. Often all it takes is to swap a 10mm spacer from being under the stem to being over the stem to make all the difference you need. Mountain bike stems are typically around 50-80mm long, while road bike stems are longer, starting at around 80mm and extending to 120mm or longer as the frame size increases. Gravel bike stems typically sit somewhere between the two. If you are a regular rider, you may appreciate a neutral position with a slight rise in stem. Around 6 to 7 degrees of stem rise and a stem length that complements your position would suit you the best. The only exception to this handlebar clamp size is the new Deda 35 system which is, you’ve guessed it, 35mm and needs a corresponding bar and stem. Bike stems look like a standard equipment without any science to it, however, they are highly influential when it comes to comfort and control. The wrong stem length will not only make it difficult to reach for the handlebars, it will also destabilize the steering and affect body position on the bike.

On my Colnago EPS, I have a Deda Zero100 stem in 110mm. The specs say it is an 82 degree stem. Looking at the stem, it has almost no rise to it. Fork steerer tubes are almost universally 1 1/8” at the top – even if the fork is 1.5” oversize at the fork crown – so most stem manufacturers don’t even quote this clamp figure. Racers will want the longest, lowest stem they can get away with and still be in control. This stretched out position will be better for aerodynamics. Some prefer light weight while some will sacrifice low weight for strength and rigidity, especially so for larger riders and sprinters.would rise or drop 8 degrees if the steer tube were perpendicular. This would rise a little more than the 84/6 if in the "flipped up" position, and would be a little lower in the flipped down position. NB: some manufacturers quote the other way ie 83° which in reality is a 7° rise so don’t expect a near vertical stem!

Leisure riders will appreciate a more upright, closer position as this more comfortable and easier to control. So stems no longer than 100mm and with 10 degrees or rise will be a good option for most. I want to replace the Deda stem with one that has SLIGHTLY more rise (and it HAS to be an Italian stem) An adjustable stem is worthwhile if you want to be as upright and comfortable as possible. However, the adjustability comes with added weight, and an extreme upright position is appropriate for short distances only. For those riding thirty minutes or more, a slightly bent body position is advantageous for muscle function and wind resistance. Cost of Stems

Newer bikes most likely require stems with a 1 and 1/8 in. steerer tube clamp and an oversized 31.8mm handlebar clamp. On average, it is best for casual riders to have a longer stem (70mm to 120mm) with a positive (6 to 10 degree) rise. It is worthwhile to discuss stem options and fit with qualified staff at your local bike shop. A stem is the component that connects your handlebars to the frame of your bike. A threadless stem clamps around the steerer tube of your bicycle’s fork whereas a quill stem inserts inside the top of the fork steerer tube and is held in place internally. An adjustable stem allows you to easily alter the angle of your bike on the stem itself without having to replace the entire unit. Most new bikes come with threadless stems; however, some hybrids and a lot of older bikes have quill stems.

Quill stems went out of fashion because the contemporary bolt-on stem and fork design is stronger and lighter. It’s easier to manufacture too, because with a quill stem the steerer tube needs to be threaded, with a screw-on top headset bearing. Generally speaking, a shorter stem will result in faster handling, while a longer stem will result in slower, more predictable handling.

Race Face Chester Stem (35mm)

Handlebar stems look like a fairly standard piece of equipment but have a massive influence on control and comfort. Get the wrong size stem and not only does reaching the bars become an issue but steering as well. As a result, fine-tuning the stem can be one way to tweak the handling of your bike – but remember, your stem doesn’t exist in isolation and changing the stem length will also impact your position on the bike. Although this is a general outline, the stem length should be decided based on a complete bike fit. This depends on your torso length, arm length and flexibility. Take into account that frame size will play a large role in determining the correct stem length.

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