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The natural Milk Shampoo is suitable for all hair types. However, those with sensitivities and dryness will get along extra well with it. As it is made with a combination of coconut and glucose-based cleansers, free from harsh synthetic detergents (SLS) that can dry out the hair. It also has Milk Protein in it to help protect hair fibres and revitalizes its natural protective layer. Since this is a milk-based recipe, you can infuse your milk with rose petals before using, if you’d like. We combine small amounts of 5 different natural cleaners as this can be gentler on the hair than one concentrated cleanser. We chose natural cleansers that wash and foam up fairly well, although the foaming action isn’t quite as intense as it would if we used a synthetic detergent like SLS (or other common culprits that end in –fate). But we’re happy to make this small trade-off to use more natural ingredients that are healthier for us and the environment. This just means a little more agitation required to build up the lather, which if you look at it another way, a great excuse for a head massage. Step 5: Pull out the milk you plan to use in your soap recipe. If it’s in the form of ice cubes or chilled/slushy liquid, weigh out the amount you need, into a heat proof plastic pitcher. If you already weighed and have a solidly frozen amount of milk in your pitcher, then move on to step 6.
You can use cow, goat, coconut, rice, almond, oat, and all kinds of alternative milks to make soap. A hand mixer, like the first one, isn’t going to speed up soap trace like an immersion blender. With the immersion blender it should take no more than 10 minutes (maybe on the rare occasion 12 minutes) to reach trace, but a hand mixer on a high olive oil soap like this one is going to be s-l-o-w like stirring by hand. (Which would take hours.)
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Lye is a requirement when making homemade soap. It seems scary and dangerous, but I assure you – if you can safely and responsibly work with strong chemicals such as bleach and ammonia, then you can handle lye. ( Read more about that why you need lye to make soap HERE.) Add the lye slowly, stirring constantly. It will take several minutes to do this – don’t rush this part. Make sure every bit of lye is dissolved. The milk might turn a bright yellow and smell a little weird. That’s okay and perfectly normal.
Wooden Mold – I use one homemade by my husband. Its inner dimensions are 8″ x 3.5″ x 3.5″. Wooden molds should always be lined with parchment or freezer paper.You could also try making your soap at higher temperatures than I do. Warm your oils up to a higher temperature (about 100 to 110 degrees F perhaps) and maybe start with your milk slushy instead of frozen solid. The cold is intended to keep the milk from scorching and turning brown, but it’s better to have a slightly tan bar than one that won’t trace nicely for you. Now though there are so many great resources out there and so many wonderful soap makers sharing their hard earned knowledge online. Palm free soap recipes that are higher in olive oil, like this one, can take a little longer to set up and cure. Olive oil is a soft/hard oil. It starts off causing the soap to be on the softer side, but once it cures for an extended time, the bar will grow very hard, yet extremely gentle on your skin. You can reduce the amount of milk by an ounce or two, if you’d like to speed up the process. Reducing liquid is also helpful when using silicone molds. Directions to Make Milk Soap
We might not have words like "Earth", "Nature" or "Enviro" in our name, but we think we're one of the most environmentally friendly skincare companies around. We're always looking for new ways to keep reducing our environmental hoof print, and because this planet means the world to us, we've stepped up our commitment to it and part of that includes RECYCLING. And I just guessed on 5 lb batch since those are more common than my 2 1/2 lb batches but you could half the amount, if needed. You could also search ‘how much oatmeal to add to cold process soap’ or something like that.) Another alternative is to reconstitute the powdered milk so it’s a liquid milk, freeze it and proceed with the recipe as normal, using the frozen milk to make your lye solution. You could also infuse some of the oil with rose petals to use in the recipe. Here’s a post that tells how to make rose infused oil: Because we make our products for our families, we have a strict ingredient philosophy that excludes ingredients like Parabens, Phenoxyethanol and penetration enhancers.Vanilla extract won’t work in soap making. It’s alcohol based (which isn’t usually recommended unless you’re doing advanced transparent soap recipes) and the scent burns completely off in the soap making process. It’s hard to get a vanilla scent in soap unless you use vanilla absolute (somewhat cost prohibitive) or vanilla fragrance oil. If you use anything with vanilla in it, be aware that it turns soap various shades of tan to dark brown and plan accordingly for that.
We get this one a lot. It may seem odd since shampoos usually seem geared to a specific hair concern like dry, oily, coloured, damaged (need we go on?) etc. But in our opinion, we don’t think it’s needed if you make a good shampoo, and hair just needs to be washed. And if you look closely you might notice that there isn’t much difference in the ingredient listings anyway. It’s kind of like pet food made specifically for indoor pets and outdoor pets (which is actually a thing) – not sure what difference this would make. Then a third option is to reserve about 1 oz of the water from a recipe, using the rest of the water to make the lye solution. Mix the reserved 1 oz of water with 1 tablespoon of milk powder until very smooth. Once your soap reaches light trace, you can stir it in along with honey before pouring in the mold. Compared to common inexpensive store-bought soaps, soap making isn’t more cost effective. If you compare to ready-made organic or other handmade soaps, then the playing field evens out. It’s also nice to know exactly what’s in your bar of soap – no mystery ingredients! But, overall, I don’t consider soap making a frugal hobby or past-time. There’s some investment up-front in getting the equipment and ingredients. I liken it to raising our own food though. It’s not really more cost effective for us to do so, but it’s leaps ahead in quality of anything we can buy in the store and we can be 100% sure of what we’re exposing our family to. You can use 1 ounce less milk (for a total of 8 oz milk in the recipe), if you’d like your soap to firm up faster, or if you’re using silicone molds. Types of milk for soapmaking:Aqua/Water/Eau, Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Sodium Chloride, Glycol Distearate, Cocos Nucifera (Coconut/Noix De Coco) Oil, Hydrolyzed Milk Protein, Albumen, Cocos Nucifera (Coconut/Noix De Coco) Fruit Extract, Sodium Hydrolyzed Potato Starch Dodecenylsuccinate, Polyquaternium-22, Linoleamidopropyl PG-Dimonium Chloride Phosphate, PEG-7 Amodimethicone, Polyquaternium-39, Laureth-4, PEG-150 Pentaerythrityl Tetrastearate, PPG-2 Hydroxyethyl Cocamide, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Propylene Glycol, Sodium Citrate, Hexylene Glycol, Citric Acid, Sodium Hydroxide, Sodium Benzoate, Formic Acid, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Sodium Bicarbonate, Glycerin, Coconut Acid, Disodium Tetrapropenyl Succinate, Parfum/Fragrance.
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