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Games Workshop Citadel Layer: Eshin Grey

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Outfit: Apothecary White, followed by Citadel Corax White (Base) and White Scar (Layer) highlights. Then Citadel Soul Blight Grey (Shade) and additional Corax Highlights Add some decals for the chapter insignia and use Microsol to make them better adhere the rounded surface of the shoulder guards. I also added a red-and-ivory-freehand to the left kneepad, see steps 17 to 20 for painting ivory, and steps 26, 29, and 31 for painting red. Spray a smaller highlight in the same corner with a brighter blue, such as Lothern Blue or Baharroth Blue. This time, influenced heavily by the lovely lore of such stories as Savage Weapons by Aaron Dembski-Bowden and Angels of Caliban by Gav Thorpe, I went for a force centred around knightly characters with strong individual identity on the tabletop.

Paint the external frames (side posts and roof frame) with Dryad Bark.Airbrush (or lightly drybrush) yellow OSL for the lights with Flash Gitz Yellow. As such, I decided to paint two identical Primaris Infiltrators in Dark Angels colours. On one, I’d use only Citadel Paints, would follow the usual process and use all the same techniques I would normally use when painting any of my Dark Angels ( regular readers know that I have quite a few).

Blue

Shade all the Eshin Grey joint areas of the armour with NuIn Oil. Take care to keep it off the Russ Grey coloured armour. Again, if you make a mistake, just let it dry fully and tidy up with some Russ Grey. Step 6 – Highlight the Armour

Anywhomst, here’s how to paint these not-quite Soviets who are more Red Alert 3 than Red Scare in a very efficient paintscheme that focused largely around 3 shades of brown: Don’t worry if you make any mistakes. Just let it dry and tidy up with Russ Grey. Step 7 – Apply Edge Highlights I first airbrushed the tank solid VMC Khaki, the same color as the fatigues of my guardsmen. I then varnished over it. Most of the iconography on banners and vehicles are transfers from all over the Forge World and Games Workshop ranges. I cut around areas of transfers I need (such as wings, for example) and add them to other transfers in layers, waiting for one to fully dry before applying the next. The Horus Heresy Dark Angels transfer sheet is, of course, the main source of transfers for the army, making life very easy with its wealth of icons and unit markings.

Highlight the Red, Amber, Green traffic lights with Evil Sunz Scarlet, Dorn Yellow and Moot Green, respectively. Wash the sign (both the lettering and the red) with diluted (1:1 parts water to paint) Basilicanum Grey. Apply a sponge weathering of dark brown and dark silver to the armour, the battle damage will draw away the focus from any areas not perfectly highlighted. Starting from the left in the front, the commissar uses the same color palette as my guardsmen. The only additional colors involved are the brass frogging, epaulettes and other details. (VMC Hammered Copper), and the grey greatcoat and fatigues, are a slightly different shade of grey to the armor.

The tank and the turret were the biggest and most involved subassembly. I painted the turret separately gluing a piece of sprue to the inside to act as a holder. In terms of how the paints performed on a wet palette, overall there was little to no difference between each range. After being left sealed on a wet palette ( RedgrassGames Everlasting Wet Palette Painter 2) overnight, all the paints were good to go the next day, or were easy enough to reactivate with a touch of water. Mechanicus Standard Grey (a whole nother coat because it is actually quite different from the spray)Sponge Chipping:Create weathering by dabbing a torn piece of foam in dark grey, like Eshin Grey or Skavenblight Dinge and/or a dark brown, such as Rhinox Hide, then dabbing this against the model. The hexadecimal color code #4a4f52 is a medium dark shade of cyan-blue. In the RGB color model #4a4f52 is comprised of 29.02% red, 30.98% green and 32.16% blue. In the HSL color space #4a4f52 has a hue of 203° (degrees), 5% saturation and 31% lightness. This color has an approximate wavelength of 483.65 nm. Create another glaze but this time it’s a 50:50 mix of the Fang and Lahmian Medium. Paint a couple of thin coats of this mix over the top of the previous layer being careful to blend it in.

http://www.ttfxmedia.com/vallejo/cgi-bin/_modelis_info.asp?p1=ing&p2=modelcolor&p3=1#modelcolorinfo Up next is a heavy drybrush of Dawnstone. I still went mostly all over, though left a touch of Eshin in the deepest recesses. A lighter drybrush of Corax White followed immediately

Now here is the area you can put a little flair and extra colors. For my specialists, I wanted them to feel like part of my army, so I kept largely the same color palette, just adding dashes of other colors into the mix, and changing the locations to make them look special without making them look like they don’t belong. Coat D'Arms match the OLD citadel colours (pre-1992) so there might be some difference. Shining gold has the most noticeable difference, Add another “scratchy” highlight of Formula P3 Bootstrap Leather [or mix more Screaming Skull or Ushabti Bone into Rhinox Hide] to build up texture. Aquila & Gold Details – Base with Retributor Armour, wash with Agrax Earthshade and highlight with Liberator Gold.

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