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Irving Penn on Issey Miyake

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Foresta, Merry A., Irving Penn and William Stapp. Irving Penn: Master Images (exhibition catalogue). Washington, D.C.: Smithsonian Institution Press, 1990. Penn was given complete artistic freedom, leaving Miyake’s trusted colleagues Midori Kitamura and Jun Kanai to coordinate sessions in New York along with Tyen, who did the makeup, and John Sahag, who did the hair. “Twice a year, after we had returned to Tokyo, Issey Miyake and I would select clothing for me to take to New York to be photographed by Mr. Penn,” says Kitamura. “For me, the photo sittings were always filled with surprises.” The Vogue editors continued to give him unprecedented autonomy over his shoots, even flying him to Paris in 1949 so that he could benefit from the highbrow aesthetic of haute couture. Penn returned with what became his signature style -- carefully staged photographs of models resembling living sculpture. Lisa Fonssagrives, one of Penn's many models, married him in 1950 and two years later gave birth to a son, Tom. They remained married until her death in 1992. Kanzanjian, Dodie and Calvin Tomkins. Alex: The Life of Alexander Liberman. New York: Alfred A. Knopf, 1993. Bunker, George R., ed. Alexey Brodovitch and His Influence. Philadelphia: Philadelphia College of Art. 1972.

Penn, Irving. Irving Penn, A Career in Photography (exhibition catalogue). Boston: Art Institute of Chicago in association with Bulfinch Press/Little Brown and Co., 1997.Liberman, Alexander. The Art and Technique of Color Photography: A Treasury of Color Photographs by the Staff Photographers of Vogue, House & Garden, Glamour. New York: Simon and Schuster, 1951. Harrison, Martin and David Seidner. Lisa Fonssagrives: Three Decades of Classic Fashion Photography. New York: Vendome Press, 1996. Irving Penn, Other Ways of Being: 100 Photographs, 1948-1971, Pace/MacGill Gallery, New York, March 30–April 28, 1990. Earthly Bodies: Irving Penn Photographs, 1949-1950, The Metropolitan Museum of Art, January 14–April 21, 2002. Traveled to: as Irving Penn Nudes, Art Institute of Chicago, June 1–October 6, 2002; San Francisco Museum of Modern Art, March 22–August 10, 2003. Penn, Irving. Irving Penn: Printemps des arts de Monte Carlo (exhibition catalogue). Paris: Beba, 1986.

Since founding his studio in 1970, Miyake has created textiles, clothing, accessories and interior lines that are rooted in innovation, beauty, and a strong tradition of making. From his technologically innovative heat-pressed pleats to his garments made from single pieces of cloth, the designer has been pushing the boundaries of what fabric can be and how it relates to the body. At a time when fashion has become mere styling, Miyake has instead produced garments—from the Pleats Please to A-P OC collections—that flatter every body shape. “My clothes become part of someone, part of them physically,” Miyake once said. “Maybe I make tools. People buy the clothes and they become tools for the wearer’s creativity.” Beauty and Style, The State Hermitage Museum, St Petersburg, Russia, December 11, 2021–March 13, 2022. Irving Penn: Fashion, Small Trades, 1960s San Francisco Portraits, Corkin Gallery, Toronto, November 25–January 29, 2022. Irving Penn: New and Unseen. Process. Pace/MacGill Gallery and Pace Wildenstein Gallery. New York, 1999.

Irving Penn: Photographs (on Assignment for Vogue), Fay Gold Gallery, Atlanta, February 27–March 31, 1981. Canavor, Natalie. "Irving Penn: A Retrospective." Popular Photography 91 (December 1984): 2, 110, 114. Parry Janis, Eugenia and Wendy MacNeil, eds. Photography within the Humanities. Danbury, N.H.: Addison House Publishers, 1977.

Miyake never expected to reach old age. He was born in Hiroshima, the son of an army officer and a teacher, and evacuated to a nearby small town during the second world war. At 8.15am on 6 August 1945, he was at primary school when he saw the flash of the atomic bomb that destroyed Hiroshima. Seven-year-old Miyake set out alone for the family house, 2.3km from the blast centre, searching among the heaped dead and dying for his mother. Close Encounters: Irving Penn Portraits of Artists and Writers, Morgan Library and Museum, New York, January 18–April 13, 2008. Japanese designer Issey Miyake passed away on August 5, 2022, at age 84. This article originally appeared in the May 2016 issue of Metropolis.Penn, Irving. Irving Penn Photographs of Dahomey (1967) (exhibition catalogue). Ostfildern-Ruit, Germany: Hatje Cantz, 2004.

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