Citadel Layer: Dark Reaper

Product Information

Most P3 Paints do not match closely with the old GW range, but a detailed explanation of each paint can be found here: http://www.brushthralls.com/pre-painting-prep/color-theory-10p3.html

I’m not sure why these are referred to as “clear”. When applied, enough coats will give an opaque layer. They are very thin and act like dense inks. Clear Red Greetings, True Believers! Marvel Crisis Protocol (MCP) has entered a golden age, with well-balanced rules (that are available online for free) and over 120 characters available from the Marvel universe (and growing)! If you need a break from other games with too many models, MCP is a nice variation – with only a few characters required for a game and a relatively minimal amount of terrain. And what terrain there is! Auric Armor Gold: This is a warm, metallic gold that can be used to paint the details and accents on the miniatures painted with Dark Reaper. It can also be used to create a split-complementary color scheme.

I had already failed with the Vallejo Drying Retarder which is more like a gel and caused the blotchiness on the first Space Marine, though this works well with Citadel Paint. The Winsor & Newton retarder is much more fluid and matched the consistency of these paints better. Any item not in its original condition, is damaged or missing parts for reasons not due to our error

Paint the Font with Baneblade Brown, Highlight with Karak Stone and edge highlight the tips of the font with Screaming Skull. Paint the frame with Baneblade Brown.TROLL HIDE: This is a fantastic dark olive green with a strong yellow tone to it. It is great for not only trolls but also lizardmen, jungle foliage, and camouflage patterns. ORC SKIN: Not only good for orcs but for moss, mold, or lichen. Great to highlight grey stone where you want to suggest there might be lichen but it is too small to paint. Also a nice color for ghoul skin! Within the Core Colours, there are Metallics, Clear Paints, Liner Paints & Washes (though no washes are part of ore Colours set 1 unfortunately). Master Series paints (MSP) Bones

I’ve talked a lot about the bottles, and the presentation, but that is where my issues with the range end. Let’s look at the paint itself. Paint the external frames (side posts and roof frame) with Dryad Bark.Airbrush (or lightly drybrush) yellow OSL for the lights with Flash Gitz Yellow. The paint isn’t advertised to work without primer, but I’ve expressed many times that primer is not a necessary ingredient for painting miniatures. It’s just better at binding to plastic and it’s better for the paint to adhere too. If you are not going to handle your models during or after painting, primer is just an extra layer of paint between the final coat and the model’s details. For you guys, I highly recommend you try these out. Think of a colour that you paint most often for your army. Find a Reaper MSP triad that is in that range and try it in place of what you normally paint. If anyone here has followed my painting progress, you’ll know I’m not the best at applying base layers. Or any layers for that matter without terribly visible brushstrokes. Here, the paint has done most of the work for me, I’m not kidding. I just slapped it across the mini and let it settle itself down flat. This is possibly the best brush-on base coat I’ve ever done.

Mephiston Red: This is a rich, deep red that can be used to paint the details and accents on the miniatures painted with Dark Reaper. It can also be used to create a split-complementary color scheme. I’ve used enough different brands now to know a good paint from a frustrating one. I had no issues with any of these paints. In fact, I enjoyed painting with every single bottle. Basecoat the lights white and apply contrast: Gryph-Charger Grey for the whites, Gryph-Hound Orange for the turn signals and Baal Red for the rear lights. Bolter – Base the metal areas in Leadbelcher, the red casing in Mephiston Red and the grip in Eshin Grey. Wash the metal and grip with NuIn Oil and casing with Carroburg Crimson. Highlight metals with Ironbreaker, grip with Eshin Grey and casing with Evil Sunz Scarlet. For the white car, the base color was already done when we primed. You can now add shading using Contrast Paint, such as Space Wolves Grey.

For the taxi, airbrush with a basic flat yellow, such as Tamiya XF-3 Flat Yellow (my favorite) or Phalanx Yellow (meh). Dark Eldar: The Dark Eldar are a sadistic and cruel alien race that feature a lot of purple and green in their color scheme. Dark Reaper paint is perfect for painting the green parts of the Dark Eldar’s armor and vehicles, giving them a deep and rich look. It can also be used to paint the details and weathering on their armor, giving them a realistic and weathered look.

Similar Paints

http://www.wargamesfoundry.com - also do a range of similar to Citadel paints, will update when can get chance. Now with my glaze of Pallid Wych Flesh ready, I go over the raised muscle of the skin to make it stand out against the rest of the flesh, but not enough to make it too much of a bright white color to overwhelm the Rakarth Flesh. If you aren’t into glazing or have struggled with it, don’t worry. this paint does most of the work for you. One of the things I learned during this new painting course was underpainting with an airbrush. The general approach is to apply colours and specific nuances to a model. then as you glaze over these areas with a single colour, the colours beneath react with this glazed coat to vary the final layer.