CNC Spoilboard Surfacing Router Bits, 1/2 inch Shank 2 inch Cutting Diameter, Slab Flattening Router Bit Planing Bit Wood Milling Cutter Planer Woodworking Tool by NITOMAK (Carbide)

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If you think you might use a router again in the future it would definitely be a worthwhile purchase even if it sits around for months. The answer to your question is no, this is not a good idea :-) Flattening a board is safe, repeatable and not dangerous if done with a router sled and it isn't just normally done that way, it's almost universally done that way.

If you were to try to do this freehand, by just moving the workpiece over the bit without a fence, it would be very easy to inadvertently make a climb cut, which could cause the workpiece to move suddenly in a direction you don't expect. The above really overshadow anything else, but additional issues relate to the parallel bars you're envisaging using, including how they'll be attached to the board, how you'd ensure they are parallel to each other and then parallel the opposite face of the board. Some expert woodworking guys always use the best router bit for planer and designing their canvases aka wood pieces. I have since gotten rid of the Triton and gone back to my Milwaukee routers plus one Makita RP2301FC plunge router which I really like.of the time they've probably been used for kitchen worktops, and in the hands of a novice, that means bearing and collet wear (as they try to take too-deep cuts with gummy or dull cutters). Since I'm retired and time isn't an issue, I make lots of lighter passes (less than 1/8") as opposed to hogging it out 1/4" or so at a time. You would also need to make sure that the work piece and its "rails" are fully supported by the router table for the entire size of the piece. The 1" diameter bit has a cutting depth of 19/32" and an 8mm diameter shank that is 28mm long; the 1 1/2" diameter bit cuts up to 11/16" deep and is available with an 8mm diameter shank (34mm long) or a 1/2" diameter shank (1 11/32" long).

And to top it off, the time and material you invest into making your sled pay off over time since now you have a tool that can be used again and again to do the same sort of job with very little setup time. They make them small enough that they can work well with a typical router and sled system that many folks use for slab flattening as well as for those of us with modest CNC machines to do the same. If the item comes direct from a manufacturer, it may be delivered in non-retail packaging, such as a plain or unprinted box or plastic bag.International products have separate terms, are sold from abroad and may differ from local products, including fit, age ratings, and language of product, labeling or instructions. Would you get less tearout for example, if you work outside ->in, moving in a counterclockwise direction? Although that is at least 20 years old and second hand, it leaves a better finish than the brand new powerpkus did.

I will go up to 3/16" on the first pass or two if there is a good amount of irregularity but then drop back to 1/8" once a start cutting a majority of the slab surface. It is hard to tell from the picture of your entire workpiece, but the close up picture almost looks like the assembly might be sagging in the middle of the cut and digging in deeper. We don’t share your credit card details with third-party sellers, and we don’t sell your information to others. Yours is one of those tasks where a good-quality router in good nick will make shedloads of difference, as will the quality of the trammel arrangement you contrive -- straightness, parallelism and sag of the crosspiece(s).When doing slots I go 1/8" at a pass and I have a 3 HP motor digitally controlled speed on my table. You can get creative with a simple piece of wood and probably make it one of the most beautiful things in the world.