Jean Patou Chaldee Heritage Collection Eau de Parfumee Spray for Women 100 ml

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Somewhere in the ’90s the chypre fell off the radar. Blame the IFRA, blame Angel (also 1992), blame whoever you like. It went quietly from the pinnacle of chic to over-the-hill faster than you can say ‘mousse de chêne.’

So for the scent itself, while it lasts, beautiful, a good 8/10. Sillage was reasonable, this leaves a very delicate scent trail. But longevity, is virtually zero, maybe 2-3 hours, tops. Now if this only cost a tenner, I'd go for it, no doubt, and just keep topping up. But for this price no chance! This opens quite light then develops a pleasing highly feminine full bodied scent with rich resins and amber, with a very soft warm spice overlaid with a delicate fuzz of cool floral notes (not sure exactly what florals, it just smells like light fluffy florals!)

Author

Jean Patou ( pronounced [ʒɑ̃ pa.tu]; 27 September 1887 – 8 March 1936) was a French fashion designer, and founder of the Jean Patou brand. Colony: For those who love leather but leather that is elegant, not brash, like many leather perfumes can be.

When I initially tried this, almost 3 years ago now, it was from a sample. I'd thought longevity wasn't very good, but actually, I have found that I was completely wrong in this regard - the difference between the amount you get from a sample compared to a full bottle doesn't always give a 100% accurate result. All in all, it's just too mature for me. Maybe the weather plays into my dislike for it, as I'm from somewhere very hot and humid, and I will try it again in the winter. As it stands, this perfume literally stings my nose when I wear it. I start to feel after the first outburst some kind of soapy notes and I must say I'm not a fan of soapy notes, but in Sublime they are hidden well, so I don't feel that they are too much and it does not resemble expensive soap as so many soapy fragrances does for me. Chaldée – Patou's Huile de Chaldée sun oil had become so popular, many customers were buying it purely for its smell, therefore, Chaldée the perfume (a dry musk) was producedAs for old-fashionedness, the original formula is nearly 100 years old, and the target age in the 1920s were in their 20s, so the only people likely to have granny associations with these kinds of scents are likely to be granny-aged themselves! I’ve noticed what’s come around again, and what seems on trend, are these “delicious veil” kind of scents—it’s just too bad that Patou is gone, because this is just as good as the Francesca Bianchis, Dusitas, and Slimane Celines that aim for a similar balanced, classical perfumery vibe.

I actually did experiment with mixing 1:1 the vintage and the modern versions of this scent, and the result sat somewhere right between the 2 versions, demonstrating their similarities.

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You feel elevated, clean, posh but very comfortable at the same time. Sublime, in word! (pun intended). Chypre perfumes tend to have a strong presence and it’s easy to characterize the eras of the chypre. The ur-chypre by Coty and the seminal chypre by Guerlain, Mitsouko. The animalic chypres of the ’40s (eg. Miss Dior). The moonlit floral chypres of the ’50s (Jolie Madame.) The aldehydic and green chypres of the ’60s (Calèche and YSL Y ), the liberated chypres of the ’70s (Aromatics Elixir and Diorella) and the roaring rose chypres of the ’80s (La Nuit and Parfum de Peau). At the heart part for me the most dominant notes are green notes, orris root and carnation. For me the carnation is a strange flower, I never were happy to receive them as a gift, but I tend to enjoy them in fragrance. It's a strange flower and more gives a "green" feel, not a floral.

For the 2013 version of Chaldee M. Fontaine retained the core trio from the original of orange blossom, narcissus, and vanilla. What is different is the narcissus has a much more pronounced presence. Narcissus is one of my favorite floral notes in all of perfumery and its enhanced prominence adds an intensity to the heart of the 2013 version which doesn’t exist in either of the vintage versions. M. Fontaine also adds a pinch of lilac which makes the new version feel fresher. The base is opopanax and vanilla as in the original but the musky aspect never hits the depths it does in the original. Here is where M. Fontaine makes a truly ingenious decision. Instead of trying to plumb the same depths that the original Chaldee did he lets the 2013 version add some musky aspects and then before going deeper he asks the 2013 version to hold that lesser intensity through to the end. So for me this smell of Chaldee is a light, pale golden colour, like rays of sunlight streaming through clear blue sky on a crisp late spring/early summer morning in these parts. Louis Süe designed all the perfume bottles and boxes for Jean Patou. [5] 1930s [ edit ] JOY by Jean Patou L'Heure Attendue: For those who love well blended fragrances that are timeless and create mood and ambiance, a contemplative beauty.

Topic

The third fragrance, Eau de Patou, was created as an energetic and green cologne in 1976. It is fresh, clean and aldehydic, but also incredibly persistent and serious. It could be a long lost Estée Lauder fragrance or a cousin of Alliage and White Linen. The tangy citrus aromas (bergamot, orange, lemon and lime) are of such purity and radiance that it is obvious they were mixed with aldehydes. They evoke the scent of young feminine skin cleansed with a sponge and floral soap. The new version of Eau de Patou was made ​​of more delicate aldehydes, musks and mosses, yet at the same time it maintains the classic elegance of the original, its almost hygienic cleanliness and its impressive durability. The new cologne Eau de Patou is different from the old, just as Chanel №5 Eau Premiere differs from the classical parfum Number Five—they were born in different centuries.