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Games Workshop Citadel Pot de Peinture - Base Celestra Grey

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Warpstone Glow is a bright, almost fluorescent green that you can use to highlight other green paint layers. I along with others have used this to create glowing effects, e.g., object source lighting (OSL), by adding more and more white paint. Metallics Leadbelcher Of all the green paints in the Citadel Paint line, Waaaagh! Flesh is the green paint color that made me take a second look. It’s not really a bright green or a dark green, but somewhere in the middle. Waaaagh! Flesh is a base formulated paint designed for easy 1-2 layer coverage and smooths out evenly when dry. It works great as a main color paint for green skin tones, e.g., orcs and goblins, or as a highlight for darker greens and even browns when mixed properly with warmer color hues. http://www.ttfxmedia.com/vallejo/cgi-bin/_modelis_info.asp?p1=ing&p2=modelcolor&p3=1#modelcolorinfo

Overall I am in love with the new white paints from GW. They may not be the dream paints like Celestra Grey that I hoped, but they are a joy to work with as very opaque layer paints. As always your mileage may vary with paint but this is a project I’ve poured a ton of resources into, saving bits over the past 4 years and my initial impressions are very positive- I would’ve had a meltdown if these new paints ruined any of these models! I would highly recommend investing in these paints if you are doing an army in white, but I still stand with Celestra as your base and using these new paints as easy to use layers that will give you a very nice gradient. Next comes finishing off the bottom half of the model. My bone recipe is to paint the skulls/bones with Rakarth Flesh, wash that with Agrax, then highlight with Rakarth Flesh and Reaper Polished Bone, using a mix of Agrax and Polished bone for shading and smoothing. Layer Paints – these are conventional model acrylic paints and form the bulk of the Citadel Paint line. These paints come in a huge variety of colors, tones, and values. You will likely end up owning more of these paints than any of the other paint types. Air Paints – these are airbrush-ready paints that are pre thinned for use in an airbrush and should provide you with similar color matching with layer and base paints. Here is an article with a review of Citadel Air Paints alongside other airbrush-ready paints. Now the pattern on the band. These patterns are all the same across the regiments, so don’t worry about which one you’re painting. Unfortunately, while I can guide you a little in this process, there is no substitute for a practised steady hand and don’t be afraid to retouch your mistakes (I do, all the damn time). First carefully paint in Scale75 Blood Red lines at the bottom and the top of the band, extending about a third of the way up for each. They should both be the same height, and also leave an equal sized white gap between them. When you’re happy with them, draw in a line at 90 degrees to each, extending the same distance across as the first line was tall. Close off the square and then fill it. Leave an equal sized gap then do another, and another, until you have two rows of red squares running the length of the band. You should do this on the rear at the tie too, but honestly it can look a little messier there because the cloth is folded over itself.

Ghost

Metallics – these are simply acrylic based paints with metallic pigments or flakes. You can use these to mimic metallic surfaces on your miniatures. When dry, metallic paints produce a reflective colored surface that can often reproduce a similar look as real metal (with some exceptions). Also when alongside other units in my army, it seems like it couldn’t be a brighter shade of white! For most miniature pieces I paint yellow, I use Yriel Yellow as my highlight for yellow surfaces. I’ve painted nearly every Imperial Fist space marine piece I own with this paint as the main color. For highlighting Averland Sunset (above), this is the perfect choice. Mix the two paints together for a nice midtone transition. To paint fire effects, you can use this yellow as the transition between the orange and the white parts of the flame. I don’t use any yellows brighter than Yriel Yellow, lest I allow my viewers to think I used a highlighter pen on my miniatures. This is a must-have yellow paint along with Averland Sunset. Mournfang Brown Personally I didn’t add grass tufts just to underscore the bleakness of the battlefield. But you certainly could add some here and there for variance.

Note that, with most techniques and methods, urban bases are going to look gray. This can be a real positive, because it means that urban bases can go well with pretty much any color scheme, and work best when the model itself has bright colors, so that it can pop against the gray base. It also means that most of the time we’ll need another way to visually communicate “urban” beyond just “gray grit,” particularly on larger bases where the effect may look boring. In these cases, we’ll see how things like rubble, debris, roads, and other destroyed structures can help pull the model together and complete the effect.Stormhost Silver is a bright, silvery metallic paint. There’s not much to say except that this is probably the best metallic paint for highlighting steel metals you can find in the Citadel line. A comparable metallic paint would be Vallejo Steel Paint, which may not apply as easily to sharp edges. I tend not to use this bright silver as a base metallic paint because it doesn’t have the best coverage. But, with a bit of patience, you will find this eminently useful as a highlighting metallic paint for brightening up metals, even golds. Retributor Armour I primed all the models Grey Seer no problem and layed down Celestra Grey with my airbrush as the base and I am very happy with how it came out. The two colors are very similar so if you dont get total coverage it hides very well. You can wash the dried surface with shades, such as Agrax Earthshade to darken the texture, too. Contrast is king, so play with different techniques to make your surfaces appear crisp. First up, I use “Vallejo rough grey pumice” with some sculpting tools to form the groundwork. It’s a nice compromise between the ready made (but expensive) Astrograniteand the DIY of the filler with sand and paint method.

Here’s where things go from colorful to technicolor, with the sashes, epaulettes, pompoms, shako cords, buttons, and more. For the buttons, just use the brass technique from the equipment section. On the particular models I painted, I found edge highlights to be better looking than drybrushing for the pompom and epaulettes, but your mileage may vary. For the sash on the sword, the pompom, epaulettes, and shako cord, I used the same green technique. It is hard to find a good white paint that will cover a surface evenly and completely without applying a lot of layers. White Scar is a one of two white paint colors from Citadel, and is the purest white you’ll find in any model paint brand. Reaper Master Series paint has a pure white paint color that is comparable. If I had to compare White Scar to other whites, then I’d say that for most white painting needs, you can’t get anything with better coverage and utility. Well, you can, but other white paints tend to be chalky and clumpy. Citadel White Scar is a smooth, gel like blend that you can use straight from the pot thinned with water, or use it to tint other colors. It mixes well with any acrylic paints, and further adds opaque qualities to those colors. Mechanicus Standard Grey Hey guys Cavalier here, co-host of Splintermind the Dark Eldar podcast and commission painter for Frontline Gaming. Sharing how I’ve used the new GW white paints to paint my Shining Spears.

Once the Agrax Earthshade wash dries, I highlight the bones and beak with Rakarth Flesh again, and then do some edge highlighting with Reaper Polished Bone to get an even lighter shade. I edge highlight both the weapons and the scale mail with Ironbreaker or Rune Fang Steel, whichever happens to be closer to me when I’m looking for paints.I also dot the eye with Reaper Pure White. Credit: Robert “TheChirurgeon” Jones Finishing Touches

I hate greys but I love greys... I own far too many greys because it's so hard to guess what a grey will look like until you've painted it on a model (in terms of is it slightly warmish, slightly coolish, slightly purplish, slightly greenish, etc). I usually buy a grey, paint it, decide it's not what I wanted and it gets thrown in my pile-of-paints-I-barely-use, lol.

Tan

At some point, you’re going to collect way more paints than you’ll ever need. I have piles of miniature paint bottles and pots that I’ve collected over the years. Hundreds. Some haven’t been opened in a long time. For the next step I use Coeilia Greenshade mixed with Lahmian Medium to add a nice touch of blue green to the lion’s mane and tail. The green in this excellent paint adds some range of color to the model to avoid being monotone greys and blues. In the end it helps to create a more ethereal look to the model. If say however, I was painting a White Scars Space Marine I would use Drakenhoff Darkshade/Lahmian Medium mix after using the grey which would give greater definition, but look a bit less ethereal/mystical. If was painting a Luna Wolf I may go for Russ Grey for grittier more muted approach all round.

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