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Posted 20 hours ago

Vallejo Model Color 500 ml Matt Acrylic Varnish

£9.9£99Clearance
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ZTS2023
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Like I said, if it works for them, more power to them, but I wouldn't touch that technique with a barge pole. As mentioned previously there can be a degree of difference with some of these. The Vallejo Aerosol Satin is gloss, yeah it sounds stupid but it is so shiny it puts actual gloss varnishes to shame, and it also takes about 3 weeks to dry. For a final layer, you usually want a matt finish; though sometimes a satin finish is more suitable for tyranids or the like. This is purely personal preference, and some people even prefer a gloss finish (weirdos!) I usually do 2 coats of varnish to seal the paintjob, and noticed that I can’t really get this stuff to come out of my AB properly with lower psi settings (15-20psi), it just won’t. Also, when it clogs, it seems to dry at the needles tip and suddenly spews varnish chunks when trying to clean it.

This provides a smoother layer, which is what you want for the decals to fit on to on curved surfaces; it's less necessary for flat ones. Simply put, matt varnish of the same type as gloss has extra 'stuff' in it (a matting agent) which makes the surface slightly bumpy, which is also what makes it scatter light and thus look matt. Gloss varnish dries smooth, and thus, shiny. I've had great results using matte coats on my minis. It's usually user error if it gets "frosty" . I have used several gloss varnish products. My current favourite is Galeria Gloss Varnish which is made by Winsor & Newton. Very good product that can be applied directly with a brush or through an airbrush. I only thin this a tiny amount (5:1 varnish:thinner) when used in an airbrush and so far its been amazing. If your spray from too far away the varnish can dry in the air before it hits the model and this can produce some unwanted results. As with all things I suggest you try this on a test mini first! Especially with brush, how can we effectively avoid clouding/misting? And is there a way to correct a possible mistake?Generally, we dilute varnish with water? Is is acrylic base so theoritically yes but is it effective? After how many coats is the mini safe? (referring to matt varnish) THEN you have what the varnish is made of. For modelling there are basically three types; acrylic, polyurethane (PU), and lacquer. In price, acrylic is cheapest, lacquer is most expensive. In terms of protection, acrylic is the worst, PU is very good, and lacquer is slightly better. In terms of toxicity, acrylic and PU aren't, and lacquer can be a bit toxic (it certainly smells!) I've heard mostly Satin for doing the washes. Now that I think about it a bit more, it seems most of the remarks on applying varnish to facilitate the flow of washes was using a Satin Wash. I've been following Buypainted's tutorials on youtube for the most part, on the Dark Vengeances set(my first 40K minis) and first models since I was a kid. He does satin.... wash.... final highlights, then satin again. I was leaning towards the gloss because I'd read it somewhere, and the fact that my first 5 miniatures frosted pretty bad using my airbrush. I had to use a gloss coat to rescue them from the Simple Green(I'd already started 2 over). New formula acrylic colors with a satin finish, extra resistant and impact proof especially designed for airbrushing surfaces exposed to aggressive manipulation. The advanced formulation contains a revolutionary component which guarantees exceptional adherence on even the most difficult surfaces, and offers great resistance to rough handling, impact, friction, scratches, etc. Once dry, the Mecha surface looks the same as the original plastic of the model, while yet the smallest details of the original remain clearly visible. The color range includes primers as well as special varnishes – also with an exclusive formulation- and a series of colors for aging and weathering effects. It is recommended to apply the Mecha colors in several layers on the previously primed surface; a few hours after application the colors will have dried to form a homogenous coating of extraordinary strength and resistance. Mecha Color can be airbrushed directly or diluted with Vallejo Airbrush Thinner or Flow Improver, and the colors can also be applied by brush. The compressor adjustment recommended is 15 – 20 PSI o 0.5 to 1 kg. For best airbrush maintenance we recommend using the Vallejo Airbrush Cleaner.

I still have 100 of mls of acrylic varnish but I've relegated it to craft project status, simply because considering the amount of effort and expensive paint (and the price of the models themselves!) that goes into these things, the cost of the varnish is piddling. But like, that's my opinion and I can afford to do so; YMMV. Well some say it's a good idea to spray a gloss coat on after your base coat, to protect from scrapes. It's supposed to be easier to rub off a mistake without damaging the base coat, and it makes oil washes flow really smooth in all the crevices. Then after you're all done finish up with a Satin or Matte coat. I'd tried the Gloss to Satin technique as I described, but my minis are extremely glossy still.So far I have been pretty happy with the Vallejo one, though after the success of Galeria’s other products I will give theirs a go when my current supply has run out. Now most of us want our models to look the best we can make them. A gloss coated miniature looks out of place on the table and pales next to one with a more matt finish. So if you want to protect your miniatures and have them matt you need to use both products.

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