Lansky Deluxe Knife Sharpening System

Product Information

There are also curved stones in a variety of grits for recurves, and triangular stones in a variety of grits for serrations.

Then turn the rear screw until it starts to feel tight, and tighten the front screw all the way down. This prevents you from removing more metal than is necessary, which makes the sharpening process extremely efficient and makes your knives last longer.Here’s why: it’s built around accurately putting a consistent angle on the edge of the knife, so anything you do that messes with that accuracy is going to have a bad end result. It’s an extremely useful device, but one that warrants fully reading the manual and practicing on some of your cheap/ugly knives first. There are also two other mounts – a universal mount that can be permanently attached to a table, as well as a pedestal mount with a flat bottom. The standard kit comes with 4 stones ranging from 140 up to 1500 grit, and has a slick wooden pistol-grip handle. You want to test for this when you’re setting any blade up in the clamp, to make sure the stone isn’t striking the clamp during any point in its travel.

Pay attention to the knife’s positioning in the clamp; the blade’s edge should be slightly extended from the clamp to allow the sharpening stones to make contact with the entire cutting edge.Another trick – with the clamp mounted in a vice, rest your index finger on the hand you’re not holding the handle with on top of the rod behind the clamp – this prevents the rod from bouncing up and down as you’re working it, keep the angle consistent. Honing oil lubricates the stone and prevents metal particles from blocking the surface, ensuring smooth and effective sharpening. The knife’s spine, which is the non-sharp, thicker side of the blade, should rest against the clamp’s backstop. Accuracy depends on technique, rods get loose, can only choose from set angles, will not sharpen modern super steels, accessories all cost quite a bit relative to cost of kit, once you get good with this you’re bound to spend a fortune on knife sharpening stuff.

Straighten them out so they’re totally flat on the table – I used a rubber mallet with a few light taps. The standard technique is to start at the base of the blade with the back end of the stone (closest to the rod) and pull inward towards the blade as you sweep the stone out towards the tip of the knife, ideally ending up using the whole length of the stone as you reach the tip.black finish stainless partially serrated blade with dual thumb studs, finger ramp and extended tang.