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However, there is one thing I don’t like about Speedpaints that no one is really talking about: Even when they’re dried, they will reactivate when you paint over them. Here are some spots I wanted to touch up with Greyseer, and even though I applied multiple coats, the Blood Red Speedpaint keeps coming through, turning the Greyseer pink. I reached out to The Army Painter and they told me it is due to the composition of the medium and most prominent with Speedpaints containing a high amount of yellow pigments. Blood Red bleeding through Greyseer paint on top Hoplite Gold is my favourite, it’s more opaque than the other two, but still darkens in the recesses. As the paint pulls from the edges, the white primer shines through which creates a subtle highlight effect. It is a quite muted gold tone though, but the complete range has a few other gold tones I’m very eager to try. Broadsword Silver is a dark cool silver. It has less of a tint than the gold, I think it’s okay but not as good as the gold. Talos Bronze is more like a reddish copper tone and even more transparent, so I recommend adding a second coat. Unfortunately, this paint has a really weird sparkle effect. It looks okayish in real life, but under my bright studio lights the silver flakes stand out as if the pigments haven’t been blended properly. Pallid Bone is a bit warmer and softer than Skeleton Horde, Hardened Leather is very similar to Gore-grunta Fur, while Sand Golem is a warm light brown. Dark Wood is like a mix of Wyldwood and Cygor Brown. Crusader Skin is a bit more reddish than Guilliman Flesh.
To complement my Speedpaint 2.0 review, I made a hand-painted colour swatch of all 89 colours on white primer. Professionally photographed under neutral 5500K light. In this post you can find this and more charts for Citadel Contrast, Vallejo Xpress Color, and Dipping Inks from Green Stuff World, so you can compare colours across brands.
5 Best Practices
I have some models I want to show how I used them but let me go into what I liked. These paints are not just a wash. They are more like a stain mixed with a wash. I really like that mixtur. I thought it “lined” the models a lot better than some of the Contrast options and was fairly easy to control. My test models I used a metallic undertone. I really like how these stain/washes can create a really unique bronze/gold look that isn’t just painted on straight gold. I end up doing a lot of bright metallics and utilize washes/speedpaints/contrast to create the darker metal I want. It is easier to start bright and bring down with shades/glazes/stains.
Thank you for scrolling through my Speedpaint 2.0 review to this point. Now, the moment you waited for: metallic Speedpaints. These are… something. I was able to review the three colours from the Mega Set, but there’ll be 10 in total. I have to admit, I was a bit underwhelmed when I saw the promo shots, so I was eager to give them a try. Even with the less than ideal result of painting over the paint-on primer, you can still see how Speedpaints provide shading, base color, and highlight, just from the single coat. Primed Legion of Nagash models. Image by Paul Benson. To come up with the 2.0 formula, The Army Painter collaborated with some well-known painters from the YouTube community. A brilliant approach to designing products in my opinion. Goobertown Hobbies, Dana Howl, and “Watch it paint it” were asked to provide their input, and even come up with a bunch of new colours themselves. Speedpaint 2.0 contains a more stable acrylic resin which forms a stronger bond. It is promised to no longer reactivate after a curing time of about 2 hours depending on the environment. Which means there should be a time window of at least 2 hours for blending and reactivation. Or shouldn’t it? Spoiler: yes but no. And yet, the community has divided into those who welcomed reactivation as yet another tool in their painting arsenal and those who prefer their one coat paints to be stable and not reactivating. Let me know in the comments which camp you are. The Army Painter now had the difficult task of responding to the criticism and reconciling both camps. Speedpaint 2.0 review – the new formula Let’s proceed with some more tests and see how Speedpaints apply on a metallic basecoat. I sprayed an Intercessor with Plate Mail Metal from the Warpaints Air range, though you could also use Plate Mail Metal Colour Primer or Leadbelcher Spray.And what about reactivation? I would say it’s similar to the regular Speedpaints. After 30 minutes the paint is very stable and can hardly be dissolved with water or wet paint, but Speedpaint Medium allows you to carefully remove the paint. My thoughts on metallic Speedpaints Any time you paint a miniature, you’ll always start with priming it. In the case of Speedpaint, you’ll want to use a lighter-toned primer. As you can see below, the exact tone of the primer will affect the result you get with the Speedpaint: You’ll want to experiment with primers for best results. Image by The Army Painter. The first thing to understand is that the latter two paint ranges have a very different formula than Contrast or Speedpaint. They are not based on dye, but on thinned acrylic pigments. Think of Citadel Nihiliakh Oxide or regular acrylic paints thinned with a lot of Contrast Medium. Now, these little experiments are all well and good, but what does that mean for practical use? I have to say that unless you paint over with a very light colour, you will hardly notice any reactivation with Speedpaint 2.0. Even then, unlike the old Speedpaints, there is no varnishing needed. One or two additional layers of paint will pretty much remove the bleeding completely. On the Stormcast’s robes I layered and highlighted over Speedpaint that cured for about 20 minutes. As the highlight colours are quite similar, bleeding is not an issue at all. Layering and highlighting over the robes of a Stormcast Eternal painted with Beowolf Blue
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