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Creality Ender-5 S1 Parameters: Printing Technology: FDM Max.Printing Speed: ≤250mm/s Power Loss Recovery: Yes Build Volume: 220 x 220 x 280mm Typical Printing Speed: ≤120mm/s Filament Runout Sensor: Yes Product Dimensions: 425 x 460 x 570mm Acceleration: 2000mm/s2 Rated Voltage: 100-120V~,200-240V~, 50/60Hz Package Dimensions: 528 x 474 x 340mm Nozzle Type: Brass nozzlex1 Rated Power: 350W Net Weight: 12.2kg Nozzle Diameter: Standard 0.4mm File Transfer: SD card, USB Type-C cable Gross Weight: 14.7kg Printing Accuracy: ±0.1mm File Formats: STL,OBJ,AMF Extruder Type: ''Sprite''dual-gear direct drive extruder Layer Height: 0.05-0.35mm Supported Filaments: PLA, PETG, ABS, TPU, PC, ASA, HIPS Extruder Material: All metal Filament Diameter: 1.75mm Leveling Mode: CR Touch auto-leveling Nozzle Temperature: ≤300℃ Slicing Software: Creality Slicer, Creality Print, Cura, Repetier-Host, Simplify3D Mainboard: 32-bit silent mainboard Heatbed Temperature: ≤110℃ Display Screen: 4.3inch color touch screen Build Surface: PC spring steel sheet Ul Languages: English, Spanish, German, French, Russian, Portuguese, Italian, Turkish, Chinese

£279.995£559.99Clearance
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Where the Ender 3’s build volume is 220 x 220 x 250mm, the Ender 5 has a larger Z axis, giving it a build volume of 220 x 220 x 300 mm. While this may not seem like a massive change on paper, it does put the Ender 5 in a league of its own with print potential. As you can see above, there’s not much separating the two printers when it comes to max nozzle and heated bed temperatures. The same applies to retraction. 0.8 mm at 30 mm/s is an optimal reference value for the Ender-5 S1. However, these values may not be perfect for the PLA filament you are using. Small changes can have a big impact. Especially printing errors like stringing are strongly influenced by the retraction. With the Ender-5 S1, a printing temperature of 205 °C has been proven for PLA. However, since individual filaments vary from manufacturer to manufacturer, you should experiment and calibrate to find the perfect value.

There are other considerations to keep in mind, notably price, a front on which the Ender 3 beats out the Ender 5. The Ender 5’s ability to offer an extra 5°C nozzle temperature gives you a bit more headroom to experiment with heat-sensitive materials, but much like build volume, the difference is marginal. The Ender 3 ships as more or less a kit with an array of parts that need joining and fixing together to construct the printer. Shoddy instructions don’t help matters here (fortunately YouTube is awash with build guides to help you) and could cause quite a few stumbles for beginners building their first printer. Expect to spend at least 2-3 hours grappling with the parts before the Ender 3 is ready to print.However, the difference between 120 and 250 mm/s may not matter much, because the actual speed difference is tiny. On a Benchy the difference is only 3 minutes. This is because the machine needs to accelerate to the top speed, then slow down before turning a corner. Just like your car, it can’t reach top speeds instantaneously. Even if a print covers the entire bed it will rarely hit the maximum speed. Printing on the Creality Ender 5 S1 So, you can approach the perfect values in small steps by comparing the results before and after the change.

E3D Hemera Direct Drive Kit– a frictionless Ender 3 direct drive upgrade from the competent folks over at the E3D, the Hemera kit includes everything you’ll need to set the Ender 3 to print flexible filaments.It channels the DIY and open-source spirit, allowing users to easily change and tweak virtually every aspect of its hardware. The internet is positively plastered with both free and paid options for both Ender 3 upgrades and Ender 5 upgrades. The printer can be assembled in just 10 minutes, allowing makers to get printing with minimal fuss and effort. User friendly UI. (Image credit: Creality)

Thanks to the flexible and coated print bed surface, PLA adheres perfectly to the Ender-5 S1. So, you don’t have to try too much with the print bed temperature until you find the right value.

Price and availability

The values given above are good guidelines for the individual filaments. However, since there can be large differences between the manufacturers of the filaments and the retraction is so sensitive, a calibration is always recommended.

Finally, I printed Doctor Aphra from Eastman’s Patreon in Eryone Silk PLA and it came out really nice. Consistent extrusion and shine, good overhangs, and minor ringing. While it was printed a bit slower than the rest of the models, I think the printer can manage most common filaments easily. Auto-leveling and Smart Sensors】: The CR Touch probe realizes fully-automatic precise 16-point bed leveling. The Z-offset can be adjusted at 0.05 accuracy with touch control. It also has a filament runout sensor and power loss recovery to factor in accidental moments. It is a tool to always count on. Even though plastic bed supports are used to increase the stiffness of the bed, there’s still a small issue with the bed sagging in the front. For most amateur printing projects, 50 to 80 mm/s is widely considered the optimal range to balance out print speed and print quality. By now you’re probably asking yourself the same question many of us have. If the Creality Ender 3 is such a powerhouse, then why pay more for the Ender 5?Print speed: 50% of normal print speed (i.e. 25 mm/s for a normal print speed of 50 mm/s) or 5-10 mm/s for high print bed adhesion Creality seems to be capitalizing on the 3D print community’s obsession with speed, and may be overselling the Ender 5 S1’s capabilities a bit. It’s not as fast as the AnkerMake M5, which truly runs at 250 mm/s as is our favorite fastest printer. But this machine can reliably hit 150 mm/s and can certainly run circles around an Ender 3 S1. It’s definitely When you're ready to install the printing platform and Z-axis assembly, you might need a helping hand to tilt the printer frame forward to make room for the Z-axis assembly. As with the other parts of the assembly, use the supplied M5x30 screws to secure the Z-axis to the frame and ensure that everything is tight. Install the two braces on the bottom rear of the printer frame, noting the R and L on the braces to determine which side they are installed on.

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