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Uni POSCA PC-7M Paint Marker Art Pens - Large Bullet Nib 4.5-5.5mm - 15 Colours - New for 2017 - Blue

£9.9£99Clearance
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Posca pens are among the best things to ever happen to illustrative and creative minds. And if you are wondering what is so special about them, well, they are vivid, opaque, smooth, lightfast, and super versatile paint pens.

Fabric and Textiles- offers permanent results after being ironed, but the fabric should be reversed when ironing. Stone, concrete and plaster – best on sealed surfaces and then with a few thin coats of MSA spray varnish. Avoid super absorbent paper that will bleed and also soak the paint instantly. If the paper is not coated, at least it should be fine-grained. Visibly coarse paper may begin to pill when you go over it with the wet pens. Binding and Cover So, what is the best paper for Posca pens? The best paper for Posca pens is high-quality, sturdy, smooth-textured, and bleed-proof paper. Paper like Bristol and mixed media paper can handle the wetness of paint and rubbing of the nib without wrinkling or tearing.

Yes, this product contains non-toxic water-based paint, which is acid-free and is called Opaque. It’s also known for being light-fast, odorless, xylene-free, waterproof, and lead-free when dry. The paint included in these markers is water-soluble, which means that the ink can be diluted to create an amazing gradient effect. With that being said, this process can take time to ensure it dries properly. One handy tip that you can do is use a brush that’s been soaked in water before starting any project. After applying the paint from the marker, trace over it with the set paintbrush. You should do this before the paint from these markers dry. Mix-Up the Markers Another thing about the surface – exterior walls are not always prepared in a way that gives a smooth surface, so it might be hard to draw on. If you scrape your coats of gesso primer on with an extra large palette knife or paint scraper, that could help fill any ridges and give you a smoother surface to draw on.

Since Posca pens’ paint is lightfast, and the paper is acid-free, your masterpiece will always look vibrant. Acid-free paper will not yellow over time from exposure to UV light. Color The texture of the paper is fundamental when choosing paper for Posca pens. Smooth surfaces produce best results with Posca pens hence go for coated paper.As with most painting projects the preparation of the surface is the most important part for creating a long-lasting object. It should be clean and free of oil or wax and if it is non-porous it will need to be roughed up a bit with sandpaper to create a ‘key’ for the paint to latch onto. Skipping the proper steps of preparation and jumping to the fun part of applying the colour causes problems for artists, craftspeople and house painters.

The beauty surrounding these markers is that these items offer exceptional adherence to almost all surfaces while providing very little show-through or bleeding. Here are the surfaces you can use these Uni Posca paint pens on: I have had reports that Posca scratches off in some situations, so it would need to be varnished. I have been told that some brush-on varnishes smear it a bit. So the first coat of varnish should be a spray, to set it. Then apply a couple more thin coats of a hard, outdoor, UV protecting varnish like Golden MSA. If you’ve invested in Posca pens, chances are, the ultimate goal is professional results, and with that is the expectation of permanence. Therefore, it would greatly help if the paper were acid-free for archival purposes. Of course, no product is going to be the best option for all consumers. Nonetheless, these Posca paint pens are certainly a worthwhile investment if you want a versatile paint marker that can help you add some finer details to your artwork or spice up your scrapbooking skills. I strongly believe that any person who’s interested in exploring their artistic side is likely to benefit from purchasing these Posca paint markers.Paper– offers permanent results for all types of paper and cardboard. This includes photos, tracing paper, and correlated cardboard. The ink in these pens doesn’t bleed through the paper. The skull should be much easier since bone is porous unless it has been waxed or varnished. If it is very dry and porous you might want to apply a clear primer first so the paint doesn’t soak in and sit under the surface. Then paint with the posca and when it is dry varnish as above. If you wish the skull to not be shiny then for the last coat of varnish you can use a matt varnish. The first coats should be gloss because a build-up of the matt varnish will usually be cloudy, but one final coat of matt is fine.

Left to right: 0.7mm ultra-fine pin tip, 0.7mm extra-fine bullet tip, 0.9 – 1.3mm fine bullet tip, brush pen tip, 1.8 – 2.5mm medium bullet tip, 8mm chisel tip, 15mm extra-broad tip. All papers are not created equal. Some are excellent for pencil art but perform dismally with paint pens. That is why considering the nuances of different papers is critical before selecting one for your Posca pens. Here are the characteristics to look for; Weight

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A smooth coat is critical, especially if you intend to blend and layer the paint. The coating minimizes the paint absorption speed, so you have a long window period to work the paint, mix colors and create smooth gradients before it dries. Glass – semi-permanent for window displays (draw on the inside of the window and remove by scruubbing off with window cleaner), on glass items you can fit in an oven they are permanent (for light use) after baked. Isolation coats are usually used to protect paintings where the varnish may be removed later (if it has become dirty; then the varnish can be removed without disturbing the painting underneath). I wonder how likely it is that you will need to remove the layer of varnish at a later date? If it is likely then to be honest I would use an acrylic based layer of colour rather than a water-based dye, work with the Poscas on top, then apply a 2:1 Soft Gel Gloss to water mix as an isolation coat, and then a layer of your final protective coat, which needs to be removable and hard-wearing. I stop short of recommending any specific product because I think you need to seek the advice of a expert in guitar-making who will know what is most suitable for your needs.

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